Barber Direct Drive Question

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Barber Direct Drive Question

strat56
This post was updated on .
Finally getting around to wiring this up and have a question.  

The layout says that a wire from the board goes to bass 2 & 3 and that bass 2 & 3 go to SW1_5.  Does this mean the bass 2 & 3 lug goes to the switch and to the board?  Same question I guess for Tone 3.

EDIT: I think this was a stupid question, it would be the same difference.  If I connected the board to the pot lug or switch 1_5.

Thanks, Jack
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Re: Barber Direct Drive Question

iggy
from what i see you are correct. the board would make a connection to the bass pot at both 2 & 3. and also wire from that location to the switch. same with the tone 3 wiring. but it does need to connect to both points.

i think you could wire each directly from the board or even from the board to the switch then the tone pot. but you need to have both connected.

If I'm incorrect hopefully some one else will correct my message.



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Re: Barber Direct Drive Question

Frank_NH
Just run a wire from either lug 2 or 3 on your bass pot (which are connected) to lug 5 on the switch and you're good to go.  If you're in doubt and can test this outside the box, use alligator clips to check the connection before soldering it up.  Good luck.

BTW - I built the Barber Gain Changer and it is GREAT!!  I think you can't go wrong with any of the Barber designs.  

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Re: Barber Direct Drive Question

strat56
In reply to this post by strat56
Thanks all, sorry it took so long to get back to this.

I finished this and hooked it up and it works, kind of.  Two things seem to be off about it and I'm sure it's something I did.

First, the gain seems to be stuck at max and the pot doesn't change it, all the other pots and the switch seem to be responsive.  I'm not very good at tracing circuits to see if maybe I have a wrong resistor some where or something that it preventing the gain pot from functioning.

Second, it seems to be more bassy than the "real" Direct Drive that I have.  I'm going to try changing the 10uF and 4.7uF caps to 1uF and see if that fixes the bassiness problem, unless one of you gurus has something else that might work, any values I can check on the board or anything.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Jack