Clari(not) - More Clean Signal?

[SeaWitch]

Hey all,

I'm back messing with my Clari(not) build, and I'm trying to figure out how to get a cleaner, non-fuzz signal.

I built the version with the fuzz lift switch, but even with the lift switch activated (no fuzz), I still get a somewhat distorted signal, I don't get a true clean guitar signal.

Has anyone run into this issue?

Just looking for all the weirdness & wobbles, but with completely non-distorted guitar signal.

Thanks for any help!!  

EDIT:
I just saw this on the main Clari(not) page from Synsound:

"I made a tiny daughter board with a 100K trimmer and put it line with the input (between the bypass and board) This has helped clean up the signal quite a bit..."

I'll try the method Synsound suggests, but if anyone out there has any other ideas, please let me know!

[SpaceCommandant]

Hi, if you look at a post I made a few months ago titled Clarinot Clean Version Mod, I posted a quote by the designer explaining how to do this. I was a bit confused about the signal flow based on his instructions and haven’t had the time to mess with it. Let us know if you work it out!

[SeaWitch]

Thanks for the info!

I'm also not sure about the setup using the buffer...I'm going to post a request in the appropriate section to see if someone out here can help us out with this.

I'll update any information I get on this thread!

[SeaWitch]

OK!  After reading more about cleaning up the Clari(not) signal, I followed this suggestion from Synsound:

"I made a tiny daughter board with a 100K trimmer and put it line with the input (between the bypass and board) This has helped clean up the signal quite a bit..."

This worked better than I expected, and it significantly cleans up the "non fuzz" signal.  From what I understand, the timmer helps keep the PT2399 itself from distorting.  It's a great, very simple fix!

[Travis]

That acts like a pad or gain control for the input of the whole circuit

I would guess the distortion comes from the 386 mainly, which IMO is a seriously bad sounding IC. Unfortunately there are limited options for pin compatible subs

Which version of the 386 did you use? The N-4 seems to have the least distortion. I’ve generally had bad results with any version that I bought from Tayda (in terms of unwanted distortion)

[SeaWitch]

Thanks Travis!

I'm using the JRC386D, which is (from what I understand) same as the regular LM386.

Maybe my IC is the issue...

[Travis]

I certainly can’t make any guarantees but if you swap that with a LM386N-4 from a reputable supplier I would expect it to have more headroom. It may resolve your issue

By reputable supplier I tend to mean Mouser, digikey, smallbear, rapid, etc NOT Tayda

[Highsmith]

The one I made with the switch goes totally clean...