Dallas Rangemaster - help

[myonus666]

I'm sure everyone is tired of these posts on the Dallas Rangemaster.  Frankly, I see so many of them (versions, mods, upgrades) ; I have no idea what the original circuit is :(

I found this on the internet-  and the image is so fuzzy,  I can barely make out the components.

The project:

To add the "original layout and components scheme" to my multi efx board.  

The problem:

not so much a problem; as a stepping stone-  my current project is in vero stripboard format.  so to stay in line with that-  I would like to convert this from it PCB layout that I found.  (given that it is correct- and will yield the results I am looking for)  I have plenty of OC44s laying around that need a home-  and the other parts are also in my parts bin.  (so this appears to be a no brainer)

before I go converting this PCB layout to a vero stripboard- I was wondering if anyone has a stripboard version already made that uses this same components and layout (assuming I even have an original layout version)  would you be willing to share- or at least steer me in the right direction to convert this myself?

Any suggestions or comments are welcome

Kind regards,

[Travis]

The image you posted has the boost pot/output wired incorrectly and also different component values than you'd normally see. I searched for a regular Rangemaster here on the site and I was surprised I didn't see one so I just drew one

[myonus666]

Travis-  your amazing.  Thank you so much!



I had a feeling something wasn't right about that other gif I found.  Honestly I haven't been able to even find where I originally downloaded it from.  It probably got deleted, and left in my project folder.

Great work.  So simple.

Kind regards,

[myonus666]

Travis,

I was just looking for parts,  and noticed that 5nf caps are slim to none.  I did find one guy in china,  who is selling 100pcs...ugh!  but its gonna take 4 weeks for delivery (what are they doing??? making them for me??)

Anyhow-  could I substitute a 4.7nf for the (5nf)   or even possibly stack 5- (1nf)  to reach that value??

Kind regards,

[amsterdam]

It's the input capacitor. 4.7n or 5.6n should be fine, but of course you can socket and try different values.

[Travis]

Hey there

You’d be more likely to find 5nf caps by searching “.005uf” but they are mostly old/NOS and mostly large or axial

Most people use 4n7 now, that’s the most practical modern substitution

[induction]

myonus666 wrote

Anyhow-  could I substitute a 4.7nf for the (5nf)   or even possibly stack 5- (1nf)  to reach that value??

A common rule of thumb component values in pedals is '10% or less doesn't matter'. With that in mind, you could replace that 5n cap with anything from 4n5 to 5n5 and you probably will not notice any difference.

And yes, putting components in series or parallel to get values that you don't have on hand is very, very common, and rarely causes any negative impact. Some builders even limit their component stock to specific values that they can get tons of very cheaply, and then construct any other value they need by series and parallel combinations of those values.

The only caveat about that I can think of is that caps in series add reciprocally (i.e. 1/C = 1/C1 + 1/C2 + ...), except for most electrolytics. In other words, two back-to-back film or ceramic caps, each with capacitance C will result in a total capacitance C/2, while a pair of back-to-back electrolytics each with capacitance C and opposite orientation will have a total capacitance of C.

[Dgeeguitar]

I just made this and it's isn't working. It has no effect on my signal. Even when I unplug the power I still pass just a clean unaffected signal. Has anyone verified this?

[myonus666]

I understand,  the details on building electronics are vague as fuck to say the least.  My best suggestion is to slow down....check your plans....prototype before you build.  The internet is a cesspool of  information,  and to say the least, a weak source of viable direction.  You have the ability and skill to make it work, just trust yourself.  Youll figure it out....

My best guess is something isnt connecting right.  

My sincere regards, and best hopes of success.  Be patient and trust the force.  

MyOnus

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-------- Original message --------

From: "Dgeeguitar [via Guitar FX Layouts]" <[hidden email]>

Date: 4/5/21 7:46 PM (GMT-07:00)

To: myonus666 <[hidden email]>

Subject: Re: Dallas Rangemaster - help

I just made this and it's isn't working. It has no effect on my signal. Even when I unplug the power I still pass just a clean unaffected signal. Has anyone verified this?

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NAML

[Dgeeguitar]

Hello, I'm just wondering if you built this and it worked. I have been making a fx pedals for over 10 years so I know how to check for problems, I also made this on a breadboard too and it wasn't working. I'm wondering if it's the transistor I'm using but I don't think so because I've used this transistor and fuzz faces and it is fine. You used the image in this post and made a working rangemaster? Can I ask what transistor you used?

[myonus666]

I don't recall if i ever finished this build.  Half the time i start it, then it gets turned into something different.  I do remember wanting to use this with some other vintage designs as a multi-fx unit.  But abandoned the build because of the constant issue of negative voltage designs.  Got frustrating to say the least.  

To answer your question,  all my transistor builds are done with sockets for the transistors.  Since germs have such unique sound that vary from part to part.  I have at least 40 that once i get the initial build to function how i want,  i can swap my germs on the fly to get the most bang for the sound i wanted from the particular fx unit.  

My favs are cv7005 and so2 oc75,  these have unpredictable leakage and gain values,  but thats the fun,  and when they start to fail,  who knows what your gonna get in the end.  Every time you power it up,  its a new adventure. Especially when you stack these designs on top of each other,  even matched pairs can vary slightly and quality is reduced over time, and they dont always decay at the same rate.  

Here is a pic i found on google,  it has some of my popular germs on it.  

For the most part,  depending on the transistor you use,  you may have to modify the circuit to meet the values you are needing.  

Since this is such an easy project,  i suggest looking closer at the transistor your using,  ive bought vintage germs that test fine,  but the minute i apply test signal and full power,  they fail and burn.  Oops. 

Careful where you buy new old stock,  ive been burned time after time.

Good luck,

Myonus

Also,  If your looking for something more stable,  i suggest silicone.  

<img height="269" width="269" name="storage_emulated_0_Download_2019GPXTransistorPrimer700_jpg_1617770939621" src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/attachment/49920/0/2019GPXTransistorPrimer700.jpg" id="HEV1617770939621" onmouseover="imageMousePointerUpdate(true)" onmouseout="imageMousePointerUpdate(false)" style="">

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-------- Original message --------

From: "Dgeeguitar [via Guitar FX Layouts]" <[hidden email]>

Date: 4/5/21 9:09 PM (GMT-07:00)

To: myonus666 <[hidden email]>

Subject: Re: Dallas Rangemaster - help

Hello, I'm just wondering if you built this and it worked. I have been making a fx pedals for over 10 years so I know how to check for problems, I also made this on a breadboard too and it wasn't working. I'm wondering if it's the transistor I'm using but I don't think so because I've used this transistor and fuzz faces and it is fine. You used the image in this post and made a working rangemaster? Can I ask what transistor you used?

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NAML

[Dgeeguitar]

Hello, I would like to tell you, I found a different layout and have had success building it three times now. I'm using Russian MP16 germanium transistor. I know silicone is more stable but there is a certain quality to germanium transistor I am looking for.

[myonus666]

Thats awesome.  Good job.

I prefer germs too 👍👍

Kind regards

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-------- Original message --------

From: "Dgeeguitar [via Guitar FX Layouts]" <[hidden email]>

Date: 4/6/21 9:56 PM (GMT-07:00)

To: myonus666 <[hidden email]>

Subject: Re: Dallas Rangemaster - help

Hello, I would like to tell you, I found a different layout and have had success building it three times now. I'm using Russian MP16 germanium transistor. I know silicone is more stable but there is a certain quality to germanium transistor I am looking for.

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NAML

[Travis]

If you failed my above layout you need to REPENT

[Dgeeguitar]

Can you verify it? Pretty sure there a mistake somewhere, no offense intended

[myonus666]

No,  its not my design.  And i am about 2400 miles from the lab on the road.  

Regards

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-------- Original message --------

From: "Dgeeguitar [via Guitar FX Layouts]" <[hidden email]>

Date: 4/9/21 12:57 PM (GMT-07:00)

To: myonus666 <[hidden email]>

Subject: Re: Dallas Rangemaster - help

Can you verify it? Pretty sure there a mistake somewhere, no offense intended

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NAML

[myonus666]

Oops.  Thought you were asking me.  Nevermind.  Good luck

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-------- Original message --------

From: "Dgeeguitar [via Guitar FX Layouts]" <[hidden email]>

Date: 4/9/21 12:57 PM (GMT-07:00)

To: myonus666 <[hidden email]>

Subject: Re: Dallas Rangemaster - help

Can you verify it? Pretty sure there a mistake somewhere, no offense intended

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NAML

[Travis]

The layout that I posted is very simple and easy to verify visually against the schematic. Post pics of your build or test setup involving this layout and I’m guessing we will identify a ground/power mistake in your off board wiring

[Dgeeguitar]

You are probably correct as I often get confused when building positive ground effects 😂😅