Dusky Electronics Hypatia

[CheezusKrust]

Hello, I was just hoping someone could turn this guy into a vero. Its a great sounding circuit based around a bazz fuss but way more versatile.

Thanks!

[nocentelli]

Took quite a few attempts due to the separate power filtering on each audio stage (absolutely necessary - I tried it on the breadboard, ignored the extra filtering and it squealed at higher settings), but here is a preliminary attempt:

SEE REVISED LAYOUT BELOW

Please note, I won't have a chance to build and test this for maybe a week, so consider it unverified and check carefully against the schematic before building.

[reggy1]

Thanks for this, mate.
Have checked it with schematic and it seems good to my (old) eyes.
Will do a vero in the next day or so and let you know how it goes.
Reg

[reggy1]

Possible errata.
Looking at the original schematic, I think that Light3 should be labelled Light1, and Light2 should be labelled Light2/3  so that Light1(ccw) is attached to the 22n cap, and Light2/3(cw) is attached to the 470n/MOS/4n7/22k/4k7.
Also other labels could become Heat2/1  and Meat2/1.
Almost finished populating board.

[nocentelli]

I agree there is an error in the Light control labels: You need wires from light 1 and light 2/3 connected to the board, so resistance increases between lug 1 and 2 as you turn the control clockwise, thus increasing the treble.

However, I think Meat and Heat do both need to be connected using lugs 3 and 2 as shown on the layout: Decreasing the resistance between lug 3 and 2 as you turn these pots clockwise increases bass and gain.

Thanks for checking it out.

Corrected and updated version below (still unverified):

[reggy1]

OK, all done. VERIFIED with provisos listed below.
Sounds good, still unboxed with long leads and alligator clips everywhere, but surprisingly quiet.

1. Pot labels and connections as detailed in previous post.
2. MPSA13 needs to be flipped 180 so that E goes to Heat3/10k
3. 470n/22n/1Uf adjacent to MOS in left corner need to be spaced out so that 1Uf box cap doesn't cover the MOS holes, especially if you are using a socket there.
Move the 470n two holes to the left, ditto the 22n, then you have room for the 1Uf cap to fit in beside the socket.
4. The two 100UF caps in the top right hand corner are a tight fit, but doable if 16v'ers are used.

Thanks again. Will have a more detailed play soon.

[nocentelli]

Glad it fired up for you, and many thanks for those corrections (bit annoyed with myself for the pinout error, I'm usually pretty good with those) and for the suggestions about component spacing, I'll modify the layout to reflect those changes when I next have access to my PC (I'm away for a few days).

[nocentelli]

Jiggled some things around + addressed reggy1's suggestions, still can't get the correct span for the diode, oh well

<EDIT>

When I came to build this, i discovered the biggest vero in my stash was 15 columns x 24 rows, so i did a new layout:

[nocentelli]

15 x 24 layout is also verified:

[reggy1]

You beat me to the boxing.
Looks good! I'm still noodling with it outside a box while I wait for a C10K pot in an order from Tayda.
It will be going into a nice cream 1590B when the time comes. Will post a pic eventually.
Have you noticed that the Meat(Bass) pot is a very subtle sweep as opposed to the Light(Treble) which is pretty pronounced?

[nocentelli]

Quite subtle bass pot, treble control kept at 9 o'clock for the most part, yes.

[reggy1]

Here is my take built on the V1 layout. Lots of usable sounds, plenty of grunt.
Will be building a few more. Thanks again.