Good "Glue" for boards...?

[Heath]

Might be kind of a weird question... but I'm making a neat little box for a buddy of mine.  It's basically an MXR headphone amp + colorsound Tremolo with switchable in/out Distortion and Fuzz circuits.  It's a prototype for an idea I've had for a travel amp/mini-pedal board.

The thing is, I'm no good at consolidating all of that crap so I've got 4 circuits and so I was going to lay them out on some cardboard I cut to fit the enclosure.  Knobs go underneath it (mounted to the top of the enclosure and then the "circuit board" (made of 4 vero circuits on 1 piece of cardboard) lays on top of them.

So I need to MOUNT those four vero boards on this piece of cardboard.  I used 1 of the circuits as a guinea pig.  I mounted it with Gorilla Wood Glue.  Yes, I can hear your gasps now, and yes, looking back, that was kind of dumb (water based), and yes it no longer works.  I've given it about 48 hours to dry and I still get nothing but very quiet little bits of noise from it when I turn the knobs.

Either it's...
A) ...still not dry and thus shorting everything,
B) ...actually a conductive material even when dry, or
C) ...I fried that shit good the first time I tried it when the glue was still wet.

No, I really don't know what I was thinking.

So... does anyone know what might be a good alternative for permanently mounting the backside of a vero board to some cardboard?  Silicon putty?  Hot glue gun?  Napalm?

[inefficiency]

I know a lot of people use a hot glue gun to hold LEDs in place without using a little clip or bezel, so I guess that might work?

I just got one, but haven't got around to using it yet. It hasn't even got a plug attached currently.

[dbat69]

I've used an epoxy glue - its a 2 pack type which is good.  Trade name here is Araldite

[Snare227]

I don't use glue.... but I have used industrial strength Velcro with adhesive on the back on a ton of boards to mount them to the back of pots and I haven't had any issues with shorts.

[rocket88]

first off, that's a pretty bitching idea and i think if we can get the tinyamp layout to work that might be great for V2 in place of the MXR headphone amp. second, i think that hot glue would be the way to go.

[Vince]

Mammoth power grip? I use it and it bonds like glue. I actually snapped a vero board trying to pull it back off the pots...Although that was my fault. It does peel back off slowly so you can still remove for repairs etc...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Everbuild-Mammoth-Powergrip-double-sided-tape-12mm-x-2-5m-/121179750002?pt=UK_Crafts_Cardmaking_Scrapbooking_Glue_Tape_EH&hash=item1c36e03e72

[AC_FX]

Hot glue or silicone caulk should do it.
I'd also consider finding a few spots to add standoff holes in your boards, so you can use something like this instead.  You'd then glue the standoff to the enclosure or the cardboard and stick the vero on the standoff. . . . removably. . . .in case some shit doesn't work at some point and you need to get at the back of the board. . .

Anywhere on a vero where you've got four empty holes laid out in a square, you've got room enough to drill a hole for a standoff like this.  You've just got to be careful about inadvertently making a circuit cut while you're at it.  And maybe make a little jumper around it if that happens.

[KingBollock]

You could use a needle to puncture the card and use wire through the veroboard holes to stitch and twist the boards to the card. It would be easy to remove should you need to.

[Heath]

Thanks, guys, some really good advice here.  I appreciate all of the suggestions.

[pfindeis]

 Shoe goo, Amazing goo, lots of names for it. In almost every dept store.
It is a liquid rubber. Make sure it's fully cured as i heard it is conductive when it's wet.
 When i do vero i use double sided tape (which never holds for long) then put a few blobs of the goo to secure the board to the enclosure.
 Sticks like hell but still removable. Moisten your finger to smooth it out if you get a blob.
 We use it for rc car, motorcycle, plane electronics or anything you want stuck.
 I have a crappy pair of steel toe sneaks that i glued. still wearing them after 6 years

[Frank_NH]

What I've been doing along this same lines for my builds is to use plain perfboard from Radio Shack to provide a mounting surface for the vero board.  

Perfboard

I first cut out the perfboard so it sits on top of the pots in the enclosure (about 2.25"x 2.5" depending on your enclosure).  You can drill some holes through the perfboard to allow the wires to be neatly routed from the pots to the vero.  I then cut some thin (~1/8"-3/16") sheet foam the same width and height of the vero and glue that where I want to mount the board (superglue is good for this).  Foam is nice here because it provides a firm mounting surface but also gives the solder connections and clipped leads on the bottom of the vero something to press in to.

To assemble, mount the pots to the enclosure, put a dot of superglue on the back of each pot then place the perfboard on the pots.  After the glue is dry, remove the screws holding the pots to enclosure and pull out the assembly (pots+perfboard).  Mount the vero circuit board to the foam using double-sided tape (carpet tape is plenty strong) cut to fit.  Finish soldering the appropriate leads to the pots (leaving power, ground, input, output for later).  Finally, put the (neatly) wired assembly back in the enclosure and fix the mounting screws on the pots.  You can now proceed with your normal boxing process (jacks, switches, etc).  Note that if you have some control switches (SPST, SPDT, DPDT) you don't need to mount these to the perfboard, but merely wire them up and install them when you install the perfboard assembly.

I can upload some pictures if anyone is interested in this process.