tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:forum-1Nabble - Guitar FX Layouts2024-03-28T12:59:39ZOfficial forum for the blog Guitar FX Layouts (aka tagboardeffects) that contains hundreds of guitar and bass effect layouts that have been published, covering many classic and popular effects. Layouts posted on the blog are mainly for stripboard (vero) builds, but also contains tagboard, perf and PCB layouts.tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-51022Status of Tagboard Effects2024-03-24T18:06:46Z2024-03-24T18:06:46ZOrson
|V|ark,
<br/><br/>I am apparently less than observant. After registering, logging in and posting, it was some time before I noticed that this site has slowed down dramatically. I'm not going to ask your reasons, I'll only say I hope all is well with you. If not, I hope it is again soon.
<br/><br/>I didn't notice that the posting of new layouts has slowed the last few years. Beginning in 2019 it took a dip, but seemed to resume in 2023. Finally, in 2024, it is down to four projects so far, but we're only three months into the year.
<br/><br/>I hope this isn't impertinent or what have you, but should those of us who want to build these projects begin downloading the layout images and saving them? Will this site remain active and present on the internet, or is this just temporary? I'd help support this site in anyway I can, rather than lose such an *amazing* resource, such as you and other have created here.
<br/><br/>Please let me know, and thank you for your time here in the last few days.
<br/><br/>Orson
<p>Posted in <a href="/Open-Chat-f3.html">Open Chat</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-51021Return of the Son of SHOD2024-03-22T19:18:13Z2024-03-22T19:18:13ZOrson
Got the SHOD up and running. Everything works. Changed the gain pot for A1M to increase the gain.
<br/><br/>What I haven't been able to quite sort out is how to reduce the bass. It's bass heavy and the overdriven sound is really flubby sounding, like the bass is happening *before* the clipping happens.
<br/><br/>Can someone suggest a way to alter the pedal so it's less bass heavy?
<br/><br/>I'm noticing that there aren't many if any posts in this part of the forum from 2024. Is there a more active place to ask questions?
<p>Posted in <a href="/Open-Chat-f3.html">Open Chat</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-51008SHOD question2024-03-21T11:03:36Z2024-03-21T11:03:36ZOrson
Hi,
<br/><br/>I'm new here, but I've been building the vero layouts by |V| and others here for a long time. I laid off for a very long time (years) due to family stuff, and am now picking it back up.
<br/><br/>I have assembled a SHOD (2nd layout). I'm stuck because the out put on the switch doesn't go to the vero board as is so often the case. The output apparently comes from volume 2 to the output jack. So is the output on the switch not used? Do I just leave that switch lug unwired and wire the vol 2 to the output jack?
<br/><br/>Thanks!
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tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-20Introductions2013-01-17T15:26:48Z2013-01-17T15:26:48ZOlav
There's a thread like this on every forum I visit. We all want to know who we're talking to, don't we?
<br/>Might be opportune to let Mark and Miro kick it off.
<br/>So, who are you?
<p>Posted in <a href="/Open-Chat-f3.html">Open Chat</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-47114Benson Preamp - values confirmed / verified2019-08-11T04:01:10Z2021-02-23T01:57:40Zandy-h-h
I've built it - works on the bench... <img class='smiley' src='/images/smiley/smiley_beam.gif' /><br/><br/>VALUES CONFIRMED BY BENSON - SEE FSB
<br/><br/>Updated layout below. Bass and treble pins needed to be flipped
<div class="signature weak-color">
<a href="https://vero-p2p.blogspot.com/" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://vero-p2p.blogspot.com/</a>
</div>
<p>Posted in <a href="/Unverified-Layouts-f6437.html">Unverified Layouts</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50994Diode clipping switch Tycobrahe Octavia2024-03-13T01:29:22Z2024-03-13T01:29:22ZDutcheffects
Dear all,
<br/><br/>a while a go I build the Tycobrahe Octavia, <a href="https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/04/tycobrahe-octavia.html" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/04/tycobrahe-octavia.html</a>. But now i want to give it some extra options. I have 2 vintage GE diodes, Fv 0.3v, and 2 silicon diodes, Fv 0.7v and i want to be able to switch between these, to alter the sound of the octave. But I also want to keep the possiblity to lift 1 diode, so I can have a standard fuzz without an octave. Is this possible with a DPDT On-Off-On switch? How do I wire this.
<br/><br/>Thanx for the tips.
<br/><br/>With regards,
<br/><br/>Dutcheffects
<p>Posted in <a href="/Open-Chat-f3.html">Open Chat</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50992Attack decay / Rustbucket2024-02-29T13:29:04Z2024-02-29T13:29:04ZRyswla
<a href="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50992/IMG_20240229_212715.png" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">IMG_20240229_212715.png</a><a href="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50992/0_Converted_decay_-_OTHER.webp" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">0_Converted_decay_-_OTHER.webp</a>Hi. This is my take of attack decay, mainly using rustbucket project from madbean.
<br/>I bulid and verified this layout. However, I made a few mistakes along the way, so take your time when you want to bulid it.
<p>Posted in <a href="/Unverified-Layouts-f6437.html">Unverified Layouts</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50673555 Voltage Tripler2022-12-19T05:08:27Z2022-12-19T05:08:27Zsharaynishi
Hey, I have recently made a 555 doubler (from a layout I found) and it works alright. suprisingly, I don't have to use the 7660's which squeal and render the pump useless (even the 7660S version was crap). lt1054 or max1044 in my country are scarce, so it's a great little alternative.
<br/><br/>Now if anyone has the time to whip up a layout for a "Tripler" I found that would be much appreaciated, I tried breadboarding it, but I just seriously suck at it that bad that I am coming over here to ask for your help guys...
<br/><br/><a href="https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/tim78.gif" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/tim78.gif</a> this is the schematic.
<br/><br/>If anyone out of curiosity would like to take a look at a "quadrupler" schematic (as well as some others) here's the link to the original article: <a href="https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/waveforms/555-circuits-part-2.html" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/waveforms/555-circuits-part-2.html</a>
<p>Posted in <a href="/Requests-f6.html">Requests</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50986Help with ZVex Fuzz Factory2024-02-07T18:58:14Z2024-02-07T18:58:14Zdenti
I used the layout here
<br/><a href="https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2010/02/zvex-fuzz-factory.html" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2010/02/zvex-fuzz-factory.html</a><br/><br/>to make two of these simultaneously. I finished wiring one today and it works, but doesn’t sound right to me. With the Stab turned all the way up and the middle knobs all the way down, I tried just moving the volume pot up and I don’t get much fuzz at all, if any. The middle knobs do some crazy shit to the sound, but I’m not sure it’s what it’s supposed to be doing. Definitely doesn’t sound like what YT videos demoing the pedal make it sound like. I’m worried I might have wired something wrong, but I can’t get good pics without disconnecting the board from the pots. I do have pics of the other build, where I haven’t yet connected the pots to the board.
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50986/IMG_0166.jpeg" border="0"/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50986/IMG_0167.jpeg" border="0"/><br/><br/>I had slightly different resistors in this one. Had 1% vs 5% and wasn’t sure which to use.
<p>Posted in <a href="/Debugging-f23986.html">Debugging</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50985MkII Tonebender with Germanium emulation2024-02-07T13:58:22Z2024-02-07T13:58:22Zjoeychickenskin
Hello
<br/><br/>I wonder if it would be possible to draw up a layout for a MK II Tonebender with silicon emulation similar to the fuzz face layout below.
<br/><br/>I feel like I could cobble something together with a weird daughterboard with the transistors on, fed into the main layout but a new layout would be amazing.
<br/><br/><br/><a href="https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/06/npn-silicon-fuzz-face-germanium.html" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/06/npn-silicon-fuzz-face-germanium.html</a><br/><br/>Thank you
<p>Posted in <a href="/Requests-f6.html">Requests</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50984Infanem Second Voice2024-02-06T00:23:52Z2024-02-06T00:23:52ZandNand
Hey there, I recently stumbled upon this <a href="https://github.com/jonasjberg/infanem_second-voice/tree/master" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">GitHub-repo</a> reverse engineering the Infanem Second Voice. Seeing as schematics (or any information) from Infanem are scarce, maybe someone can have a go at it? I shot Jonas a mail and he was fine with me posting his reverse engineered schematic:
<br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50984/infanem_2nd_voice_schematic_repost.png" border="0"/><br/><br/>He also sent me a link to <a href="https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?t=12290" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">this FSB thread</a>, the PCB the schematic is based on can be found there.
<p>Posted in <a href="/Requests-f6.html">Requests</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-8569Show your pedal guts!2014-03-14T16:32:57Z2014-03-18T00:04:56ZGeiri
Guys, I can't believe there isn't a thread like this here! If there is, sorry but I couldn't find one.
<br/><br/>Since this is a DIY community here, let's share pictures of the insides of our pedals. That way we can inspire each other and possibly learn from what others are doing.
<br/><br/>I'll get the ball rolling:
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n8569/IMG_0055.jpg" border="0"/><br/>Analogman KOT
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n8569/IMG_0152.jpg" border="0"/><br/>Klon using Pedal Parts PCBs that I used to use but now have a new design for myself.
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n8569/IMG_0361.jpg" border="0"/><br/>Owly Booster
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n8569/IMG_0382.jpg" border="0"/><br/>Marbleverb
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n8569/IMG_0429.jpg" border="0"/><br/>Klon buffer
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n8569/IMG_0593.jpg" border="0"/><br/>Tap tempo
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n8569/IMG_0873.jpg" border="0"/><br/>Growly
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n8569/IMG_0912.jpg" border="0"/><br/>Marshall Shredmaster
<br/><br/>I'd love to see what you guys have been doing! <img class='smiley' src='/images/smiley/anim_claps.gif' />
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www.pedalprojects.com
<br/>www.facebook.com/pedalprojects
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<p>Posted in <a href="/Open-Chat-f3.html">Open Chat</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50976'Pre-gain' control for Tonebender Mark 3?2024-01-08T17:34:32Z2024-01-08T17:34:32Ztracer03
I had a request to build a Tonebender Mark 3 with a 'pre-gain' control (basically an input level control that would emulate changes to the guitar's volume knob, so he could 'set and forget') - I'm using a modified version of the Mark 3 layout with an onboard voltage inverter.
<br/><br/>I modified the Park Fuzz Three-knob layout from here: <a href="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/Original-Park-Fuzz-3-knobbie-and-2-knobbie-td21269.html" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">Original Park-Fuzz-3-knobbie-and-2-knobbie</a><br/><br/>My plan was to route the guitar signal input to lug 2 of the pot, wire lug 1 to ground and lug 3 to the circuit input. Using a 500k Rev Log pot (to simulate the guitar's volume control - Strat).
<br/>Would there be any issues with doing this? Thanks in advance.
<p>Posted in <a href="/Open-Chat-f3.html">Open Chat</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50981Opamp tester PCB arrived! Operational amplifier tester2024-02-03T06:02:17Z2024-02-03T06:02:17Zandregarcia57
Opamp tester PCB arrived! Operational amplifier tester.
<br/><br/><a href="https://www.alfakits.com/downloads/opamptester.zip" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://www.alfakits.com/downloads/opamptester.zip</a><br/><br/><a href="https://youtu.be/dhozRfhO6vI?si=kbKPW60h4hvSWZfL" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://youtu.be/dhozRfhO6vI?si=kbKPW60h4hvSWZfL</a><br/><br/>Single OPAMP: LM741, TL071, TL061, TL081 and others
<br/><br/>pin 2 - Inverting Input (-)
<br/><br/>pin 3 - Non-inverting input (+)
<br/><br/>Pin 4 - Power (-)
<br/><br/>pin 6 - Output
<br/><br/>Pin 7 - Power (+)
<br/><br/><br/>DUAL OPAMP: LM358, RC4558, TL062, TL072, TL082 and others
<br/><br/>pin 1 - Output A
<br/><br/>pin 2 - Inverting Input A(-)
<br/><br/>pin 3 - Non-inverting input A(+)
<br/><br/>Pin 4 - Power (-)
<br/><br/>Pin 5 - Non-inverting input B(+)
<br/><br/>Pin 6 - Inverting Input B(-)
<br/><br/>pin 7 - Output B
<br/><br/>Pin 8 - Power (+
<p>Posted in <a href="/PCB-Layouts-f24055.html">PCB Layouts</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-19334Tape Echo Preamps2015-04-09T10:58:07Z2015-05-12T05:26:11ZNeil mcNasty
As many of you know, the Echoplex EP3 preamp has become legendary after it was adapted for stompbox use, and it has become one of thew most requested builds that I've gotten lately.
<br/>I have tinkered a bit with it, adapting some features from the Madbean Fatpants + some of my own, with very nice results. So I thought that it would be a good idea to share my version of it.
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n19334/EP3_Preamp_-_Nastyfied_2015.png" border="0"/><br/><br/>After building a couple and getting friends to try it out (with great success), a friend of mine said that the Echolette NG51 Tape Echo had his favorite preamp section. Way better than the EP3 he stated.
<br/>This made me wonder if it was possible to adapt some more tape echo preamps for stompbox use, and I have now managed to adapt a couple of them...
<br/><br/>Here's the Echolette NG51 preamp section (verified):
<br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n19334/Echolette_NG51_Preamp_-_Adapted.png" border="0"/><br/>I recomend trying to run it at 18 volts as well.
<br/>The only change I have done is in the tone-stack: The 22nf was 4.7nf in the original, so I increased it to match the input-cap, in order to get a wider range and more bottom end.
<br/>(NOTICE: this one has issues with a bit low volume, and I will try to fix this and update when I find a solution)
<br/><br/>I also adapted the Roland SP201 (the Space Echo) preamp
<br/>(there were some errors/cuts missing on the first one I posted, and I've renamed Volume into Gain and also added an Output Volume pot so that you can crank the input for some dirt with more control):
<br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n19334/SP201_Preamp_-_Nastyfied.png" border="0"/><br/>This one functions very well as a Preamp/Booster and has become one of my favorites.
<br/><br/>Enjoy this humble contribution...
<br/>Cheers!
<p>Posted in <a href="/Preamps-f24089.html">Preamps</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50969Pedal Martyr Marshall Valvestate vs8100 preamp2024-01-01T20:54:32Z2024-01-01T20:54:32Zandregarcia57
hey guys
<br/>Does anyone have a tagboard of this pedal The Martyr preamp/distortion pedal?
<br/>puts the classic 1990s Marshall Valvestate vs8100
<br/>thanks
<br/>André
<p>Posted in <a href="/Requests-f6.html">Requests</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50961HPF Tech HPF-Pre Series 32023-12-09T18:52:57Z2023-12-09T18:52:57Zsparella
There is a new version of the HPF-Pre which uses opamps instead of transistors. It looks like a handy little utility box to have around: buffer + phase inverter + 12db HPF @ 35Hz + 12db variable HPF 35-140Hz + volume trim.
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50961/HPF_Pre_Series_3.jpg" border="0" alt="schematic"/><br/><br/>Complete info at:
<br/><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/hpftechllc/home/technical-diy-stuff/hpf-pre-series-3-technical-info" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://sites.google.com/site/hpftechllc/home/technical-diy-stuff/hpf-pre-series-3-technical-info</a>
<p>Posted in <a href="/Requests-f6.html">Requests</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50965Need some help troubleshooting, what is breaking my ICs2023-12-23T13:04:57Z2023-12-23T13:04:57Zbobert
Hello everybody!
<br/>I recently finished soldering a pcb and its been giving me some trouble for about a week. I tried troubleshooting it but at this point I think the problem is deeper than my understanding of electronics.
<br/><br/>The circuit is a Darkglass Microtubes B3K, a distortion for bass. Here's a link to the layout:
<br/><a href="https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2017/05/darkglass-microtubes-b3k.html" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2017/05/darkglass-microtubes-b3k.html</a><br/><br/>Instead of the two J201 I have 2n5458 which I think should be an OK replacement, but correct me if I'm wrong.
<br/><br/>The problem is that when the pedal is engaged, the distorted tone is only there when you really slam the strings and then it cuts out like a noisegate after the volume decreases past a certain point.
<br/>If i set the blend pot to half, the clean tone will always be there regardless of the volume but the distorted tone will cut in and out.
<br/><br/>I followed the advice on <a href="http://www.geofex.com/fxdebug/fxdebug.htm" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">http://www.geofex.com/fxdebug/fxdebug.htm</a> for blatty and gated sound.
<br/><br/>It says that the situation is a dead giveaway that something is not properly biased. However I'm still unsure what and where, nor does the layout call for any trimpots or biasing.
<br/>I've included the measurements on all the pins of the fets and ICs.
<br/><br/><br/>Power Supply = 9.19v
<br/><br/>Top Left 2n5458
<br/>D = 8.93v
<br/>S = 6.05v
<br/>G = 4.26v
<br/><br/>Bottom Left 2n5458
<br/>D = 6.05v
<br/>S = 1.28v
<br/>G = 0v
<br/><br/>TL072
<br/>1 = 4.50v | 8 = 8.93v
<br/>2 = 4.50v | 7 = 7.23v
<br/>3 = 4.06v | 6 = 4.52v
<br/>4 = 0v | 5 = 4.20v
<br/><br/>TL074
<br/>1 = 3.8 to 4.0v | 14 = 4 to 4.2v
<br/>2 = 3.8 to 4.0v | 13 = 4.09v
<br/>3 = 3.8 to 4.0v | 12 = 4 to 4.12v
<br/>4 = 8.94v | 11 = 0
<br/>5 = 4.2v | 10 = 4.03v
<br/>6 = 4v | 9 = 4.10v
<br/>7 = 3.95v | 8 = 4.06v
<br/><br/>4049
<br/>1 = 8.87v | 16 = -0.02 to 0.04v
<br/>2 = 4.55 | 15 = 8.80v
<br/>3 = 4.59v | 14 = 0
<br/>4 = 8.83v | 13 = -0.02 to 0.05v
<br/>5 = 0v | 12 = 8.8v
<br/>6 = 8.8v | 11 = 0v
<br/>7 = 0v | 10 = 8.8v
<br/>8 = 0v | 9 = 0v
<br/><br/>(note the right side of the TL072)
<br/><br/>I traced the input signal like the following screenshot:
<br/><br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50965/Screenshot_2023-12-23_204834.png" border="0"/><br/><br/>everything is fine with the signal when it reaches the gate of the bottom 2n5458, what the fet does with the signal is beyond me but i assume its to do with the switches for treble and bass cutting/boosting. The signal then continues to the 2nd input of the TL072 where I found the problem to be.
<br/><br/>Probing the respective output (2nd) of the TL072 gives the blatty/gated sound, or rather just harsh noise when the strings are strummed hard. And silence when the strings are strummed soft.
<br/>Probing the input is just the clean sound of the bass, but it's pretty quiet.(I don't know how big of a role the volume has at this point)
<br/><br/>This obviously indicates a faulty IC and I've tried a replacement with the following voltages:
<br/><br/>***Replacement TL072
<br/>1 = 4.5v | 8 = 8.95v
<br/>2 = 4.5v | 7 = 6.4v
<br/>3 = 4.5v | 6 = 4.49v
<br/>4 = 0v | 5 = 4.17v
<br/><br/><br/>Obviously both are bad, my question is if I put in a third (presumably working) one will it break and behave like these two?
<br/>Or is it just a coincidence that I have two TL072s whose left side works perfectly, but the right side is dead on both.
<br/><br/>What could be the issue causing this?
<br/>I am going to get a new TL072 but until then I want to get a second (third/fourth/fifth...) opinion on this.
<p>Posted in <a href="/Debugging-f23986.html">Debugging</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50964Guyatone ST2 Compressor2023-12-21T13:55:44Z2023-12-21T13:55:44ZSloth
Looking for a veroboard layout for a Guyatone ST2
<br/><br/>
<p>Posted in <a href="/Requests-f6.html">Requests</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-45830Revv G4 Pedal - Verified2019-03-01T13:59:42Z2019-03-12T12:03:28Zanders
The <a href="https://www.pedalpcb.com/docs/PedalPCB-Sanguine.pdf" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">schematic</a> is finally up on pedalPCB's site.
<br/><br/>*edit*
<br/>Now verified by Hozy
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n45830/Revv_G4_Pedal.png" border="0"/>
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tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-7287Roland Double Beat fuzz section2013-12-17T16:20:29Z2013-12-20T04:41:21ZFreppo
I made this layout for the fuzz section of the Roland AD-50 fuzz/wah - Verified!
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n7287/Roland_Double_Beat_fuzz.gif" border="0"/><br/><br/>Here's a video I found:
<br/><br/><iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/DFx1I6MzkLk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe><br/><br/>/ Fredrik
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check out my building blog at www.parasitstudio.se
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tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50951Finish Line layout error2023-11-10T07:04:09Z2023-11-10T07:04:09ZPaul_C
<br/>I can't get comments to work so I'm posting here.
<br/><br/>Never satisfied with my build I sat down with the layout and the schematic from The Tone God's site and spotted that the final polarised capacitor (bottom right in the layout image) is the wrong way round.
<br/><br/>Swapped round there's a lot more range from both controls :O)
<br/><br/>It still feels a bit weak so I'm going to try upping the gain of the LM386 to see what happens - maybe with a switch.
<p>Posted in <a href="/Debugging-f23986.html">Debugging</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50948Violets are Blues2023-11-05T09:35:08Z2023-11-05T09:35:08ZHellasonic
After building pedals from this site for a couple of years I thought that I'd try my hand at drawing my own layout. I found the schematic for Dylan159s "Violets are Blues" and drew it up. After double checking and testing bits on breadboard I built up the pedal and not only does it work but it sounds pretty good too.
<br/>i'm sure that someone with more experience could reduce the size of the board but hey it's not huge and will easily fit into a 1590B.
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50948/Screen%2520Shot%25202023-11-05%2520at%252016.png" border="0" style="float:left; margin:.4em;"/>
<p>Posted in <a href="/PCB-Layouts-f24055.html">PCB Layouts</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50902Hi all!2023-08-12T12:27:57Z2023-08-12T12:27:57ZFartaignelives
How do everyone, new here....
<br/><br/>Just starting on my veroboard journey and I have a couple of queries regarding some circuits on the blog.
<br/><br/>I'm interested in the Harmonic Percolator and wanted to know if all the kinks mentioned in the comments had been ironed out and that the layout is good to go?
<br/><br/>I'm also interested in the Scarab Deluxe and can see from the layout that the wiring for the Fat connections still seem to be wrong in relation to the comments section.
<br/><br/>If anyone can answthese questions It would be most appreciated. Really looking forward to building these two in particular 😀
<br/><br/>Cheers,
<br/>Paul.
<p>Posted in <a href="/Beginner-s-Corner-f24025.html">Beginner's Corner</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50932Sparkle Mini booster layout2023-09-18T02:45:09Z2023-09-18T02:45:09Zfx-fidden
Hello,
<br/>The TC Electronics Sparkle Mini Booster is a cheap pedal, but very appreciated. I can't find any layout but a protoboard version (verified, but I guess the pot is reversed), so I tried to draw a veroboard layout of this well known booster.
<br/><br/>Here's the schematic:
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50932/Mini_Spark.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/>Here's my UNVERIFIED layout:
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50932/TC_Electronics_Spark_Mini_2.png" border="0"/><br/><br/>In the schematic there's no filter cap in the VB, but I accommodated my layout to add a 47uF cap between the VB and the ground.
<br/>I used the 1N5817, but I think a 1N4001 should be fine.
<br/><br/>I want to add something about the protoboard version.
<br/>- I said it is verified (we can find it on Effects Layout blog), but the pot is 500k instead 100k. Using a 500k pot the boost is over the 20db declared by TC Electornics. So I think the original pot should be the 100k.
<br/>- And the pot seems reversed, it might to be a mistake in the layout or in the schematic, or maybe because the transistors used: I found something strange in my emulation using different transistors, indeed the orientation changes with some transistors, but using BC549C and BC558C that should be fine like I planned.
<br/>- The 100nF used as filter is absent, and the diode is not in line with the 9v, but is across the ground.
<br/><br/>Tell me if you see something wrong in my layout, I modified it five times before post it.
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<p>Posted in <a href="/Unverified-Layouts-f6437.html">Unverified Layouts</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50931Non-working Bassballs2023-09-17T00:13:49Z2023-09-17T00:13:49Zbaranismen
Morning all,
<br/><br/>Last night I finished my 2nd project with great hopes, however all I got was a DI sound mixed with a rather feint hi-freq filtered sound, and nothing else. Pots are not changing anything either. I've followed the below project. Also the dist. switch (which is an on/on, 3-pin switch) totally kills the sound when switched on one side.
<br/><br/><a href="http://dirtboxlayouts.blogspot.com/2022/10/electro-harmonix-bassballs-pedalpcb.html" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">http://dirtboxlayouts.blogspot.com/2022/10/electro-harmonix-bassballs-pedalpcb.html</a><br/><br/>This project seems the same as the schematics on PedalPCB and the Mad Bean's Slurpee. The only difference between Slurpee is the 100n cap between + and - lines. There were some flaws with the original stripboard design above, and I fixed them by tracing everything one by one (and reported the author to do so, you can see the dirtbox posts). I'm adding the PDF file I've redrawn, renamed the parts, and proof-traced everything according to Slurpee below link just to be clear.
<br/><br/><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nUDsXu2VDSBr0_tvYQQcssZsIEUSDvKu/view?usp=drive_link" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nUDsXu2VDSBr0_tvYQQcssZsIEUSDvKu/view?usp=drive_link</a><br/><br/>Even now, C11&C12 caps should be exchanged with C9&10, but that's not a big deal for now I believe.
<br/><br/>I've measured the voltages for both ICs, which are;
<br/><br/>IC-1 (MC 1458P)
<br/><br/>1- 4,52
<br/>2- 4,52
<br/>3- 4,42
<br/>4- 0
<br/>5- 0
<br/>6- 7,53
<br/>7- 8,54
<br/>8- 9,05
<br/><br/>IC-2 (JRC 4558)
<br/><br/>1- 4,52
<br/>2- 4,52
<br/>3- 4,51
<br/>4- 0
<br/>5- 4,53
<br/>6- 4,51
<br/>7- 4,5
<br/>8- 9,05
<br/><br/>It's the very same problem that some had in here; <a href="https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/06/ehx-bassballs.html" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/06/ehx-bassballs.html</a> but there's no clear answer about the solution
<br/><br/>I've used 2n5088 transistors (and tried on both ways), not helped. ICs are also the same, and so are the diodes, pots, and everything. The switch is an SPDT on-on.
<br/>These are the corrections I've made, yet I got no result.
<br/><br/>Here are some pictures (don't mind the 2n2219, the pinout is the same, just there for trial purposes)
<br/><br/><a href="https://photos.app.goo.gl/FeRecArThsTEyZnX7" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://photos.app.goo.gl/FeRecArThsTEyZnX7</a><br/><br/>Any help would be most appreciated!
<p>Posted in <a href="/Debugging-f23986.html">Debugging</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50928Weslie - Sort of Leslie Simulator2023-09-09T03:57:38Z2023-09-09T03:57:38Zfx-fidden
Hello, I found this project by General Guitar Gadget:
<br/><a href="https://generalguitargadgets.com/effects-projects/modulationecho/weslie-modulator/" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://generalguitargadgets.com/effects-projects/modulationecho/weslie-modulator/</a><br/><br/>It's a kind of Leslie simulator, it's more a warble effect, but it's pretty unique and new to build.
<br/><br/>Here's a demo:
<br/><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6R4fKmiO_jk" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6R4fKmiO_jk</a><br/><br/>It seems to have a volume drop, maybe a booster after the circuit could be useful.
<br/><br/>I tried to draw a veroboard layout (no boost).
<br/><br/>That's it, UNVERIFIED.
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50928/Weslie_3.png" border="0"/><br/><br/>Tell me if I made some mistake.
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<p>Posted in <a href="/Unverified-Layouts-f6437.html">Unverified Layouts</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-9190EHX NYC Reissue Big Muff V92014-04-20T14:18:49Z2014-12-09T16:49:31ZDanielC
Basically, I took <a href="http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/06/ehx-black-russian-big-muff-v8.html" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">IvIark's layout for the black Russian Big Muff</a> and changed the values to agree with the schematic for the NYC Reissue. <a href="http://www.bigmuffpage.com/images/schematics/V9%20NYC%20REISSUE%20BIG%20MUFF%20SCHEMATIC_1st%20version.jpg" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">Here's</a> the schematic that I used (<a href="http://www.bigmuffpage.com/Big_Muff_Pi_versions_schematics_part3.html" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">source</a>). I believe this schematic is most likely accurate, because I found <a href="http://www.pisotones.com/BigMuffPi/psst/schm-american.jpeg" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">another one</a> that agrees with it (<a href="http://www.pisotones.com/BigMuffPi/psst/BMP_versions.htm" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">source</a>).
<br/><br/>Note that this circuit is slightly different from <a href="http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/10/ehx-nyc-big-muff.html" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">the version posted here in October</a>. My version is the "reissue" from ~2000, whereas the version IvIark posted is a more modern revision.
<br/><br/>I hope it's ok that I modified IvIark's existing layout rather than making my own from scratch. I figured it would be nice, too, in case anyone wants to compare it to the black Russian. But let me know if you'd rather me take it down.
<br/><br/><b>EDIT (2014 Dec 9):</b> Verified! I know it's like eight months later, but I finally built this on Thanksgiving day using this layout, and it works.
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n9190/Vero.png" border="0"/>
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tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50818Thorpyfx The Dane2023-05-04T23:37:23Z2023-05-04T23:37:23ZDrayve85
Can you make a vero layout for the Dane? I have the schematic fro PedalPCB. It’s just a modded Timmy variant, with a single boost from the Heavy Water pedal, but sounds fantastic. Thanks.<img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50818/C4673F7E-D3B1-4BBD-95D1-3D80CF6F3E70.jpeg" border="0"/>
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tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-35603A Guide to Soft-Latch Relay Bypass2017-01-22T00:21:05Z2023-08-31T23:31:55ZSilver Blues
The big blue 3PDT footswitch has been the go-to actuator for true bypass switching for who knows how long, and it has served its purpose well with a high success rate and reliable operation. Nevertheless, a popular upgrade and increasingly frequent inclusion in high-end stompboxes is the so-called “soft latch” true bypass system, which uses an electronic circuit actuated by a momentary switch to toggle a small relay that handles the signal routing. The momentary switch doesn’t produce the characteristic mechanical “thunk” or "clack" that the 3PDT does; rather, all you hear is the tick of the relay, giving rise to the “soft-latch” moniker. Systems like these are well worth the effort it takes to implement them, as they hardly ever pop because there is no substantial mechanical component, and the smooth, detent-free actuation lends a satisfying, professional feel to a pedal. I’ve become a big soft-latch nerd, and have tried most of the circuits commonly available today, so I thought I’d write a little guide to help those who might be interested in getting into it.
<br/><br/>Soft-latch systems have historically been a bit expensive, due to the far larger number of components necessary to make it work versus a purely mechanical system or even something like the Millennium Bypass. My main goal has been to find a circuit cheap enough and reliable enough such that I could put a soft-latch in every pedal I built and do away with the mechanical 3PDTs as a matter of course. A short overview of what’s available follows.
<br/><br/><a href="http://www.muzique.com/schem/dpdt.htm" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">AMZ FX DPDT Switch Board</a>: When I began my journey into soft-latch, I began by using Jack Orman’s “True Bypass with Relay PCB"s, which were an inch-square PCB designed and dedicated to true bypass switching. He has since discontinued this product and instead sells a general-purpose DPDT relay switch PCB which can be configured for true bypass switching quite easily (I have used both). The circuit is AVR microcontroller-based, uses subminiature single-coil latching relays like the Takamisawa AL5WN-K, Panasonic TQ2-L-5V, or NEC EA2-5S, and has a low parts count. Advantages to this circuit are that it is very physically small and can fit virtually anywhere, the current draw is low and the switching is reliable and crisp. The circuit flashes the indicator LED on power-up, so you know everything is working as intended, which is a nice feature. Disadvantages are that there is a flywire(s) required for the true-bypass configuration, which doesn’t look great and is a bit difficult to keep out of the way given its location. This becomes worse given that I strongly recommend you wire this system to <a href="https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">ground the effect input on bypass</a>, requiring more flywires. The unit cost is also expensive, at least for me, at $7 for the board and AVR plus $7 shipping to Canada (although that will obviously vary with your location). This is not including the other components necessary to make the thing work; Mr. Orman sells this as a complete kit for $14 plus shipping. Other systems like this exist all over the place, which are functionally identical. Though there’s nothing negative to say about the functionality, the sky-high unit price is a bit of a roadblock to being able to include one in every build.
<br/><br/><a href="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/Mictester-s-CMOS-Relay-Bypass-Module-td19021.html;cid=1485048346379-72" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">Mictester’s CMOS module</a>: Developed iteratively from a circuit by Mictester on FreeStompBoxes, this circuit uses a 40106 Schmitt trigger to actuate a single-coil latching relay like the AL5WN-K. The parts count is moderate, and there are PCB layouts available that are nice and small (1.2” x 1.4”, or 30 x 36 mm), however the nature of the parts involved makes it awkward to lay out on vero and thus leaves the footprint a bit on the large side. Nevertheless, it will fit inside a 1590B so long as low-profile parts are used. The actuation on this circuit is also nice and defect-free, however there are some issues with it. Firstly, the power-on state is not guaranteed and there isn’t any way to know what it will be unless you extend the circuit to include it (this is possible, and is discussed in the <a href="https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=31684&p=148295#p148295" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">original thread on FSB)</a>. The one that I built as a tester defaults to “engaged” when power is applied (seemingly a common problem), which may not be acceptable for some implementations. Secondly, the circuit doesn’t much like rapid engage/bypass cycles; there is a (short, but noticeable) minimum time required between button presses to get it to cycle properly. In most cases it should not be an issue, but still something to note. Cost is low, I estimate $3-4 based on Tayda and eBay prices.
<br/><br/><a href="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n25678/0000001-RelayBypass_TQ2_Relay_Smaller%21%21%21%21%21%21%21%21.png" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">The Andy Relay</a>: Developed by the famous <a href="http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=73&t=9752&hilit=rg+keen+relay&start=20" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">R.G. Keen</a>, this circuit uses a 4069 hex inverter to actuate a dual-coil latching relay. One of the best circuits of this type I have used; the switching is very reliable and there is no extraneous noise to speak of. The PCB is 1.8” x 0.94” or 46 x 24 mm, and so is easy to fit in 1590B and larger boxes at various locations. It also includes wire-routing holes for strain relief, which is very welcome. It uses very common components with a moderate parts count. The only disadvantage to speak of is that it uses dual-coil latching relays rather than single-coil ones, and the relay “of choice” is the <a href="http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic-Industrial-Devices/TQ2-L2-5V/?qs=HLLy2pIPwutxEvqN5LizeA%3D%3D" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">Panasonic TQ2-L2-5V</a>. This part is more expensive than the single-coil relays even if you get them from eBay and the like, and the big-box retailers (e.g. Mouser) want to charge $8 apiece for it, which would double the overall cost of the system. Other similar relays could be used, although most are equally difficult to find, not to mention at a good price. The NEC EA2-5TNFG work brilliantly in this circuit, and they can be found for a very reasonable ~$2.50 USD apiece from eBay (not quite as cheap as the AL5WN-K and its congeners, but manageable nonetheless), and are what I employ in my boards. I have used many of these to date and continue to use them; the system cost is slightly higher than something like the Mictester module, but the quality of switching and of construction is well worthwhile. Do note the wiring of the LED if you are to build this; it has caused much confusion. Additionally, and very importantly, the silkscreen on the OSH Park boards (see below) have an error in them; the 10K resistor immediately to the right of the top-right corner of the 4069 must be 100K. If a 10K is placed in this position, the relay will not toggle (although the LED will still work correctly).
<br/><i>UPDATE September 2022</i> - OSH Park used to sell PCBs for this circuit, but the shared project has disappeared from the site a few years ago and not returned. If you have previously ordered one of these, you can order them again, but I'm not sure at the moment what is to be done if someone wants to obtain these boards for the first time. Currently the only recourse seems to be to get them from someone who has previously ordered them, or etch them/have them fabricated yourself.
<br/><br/><a href="http://www.freestompboxes.org/download/file.php?id=25974&mode=view" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">Pruttelherrie’s “Generic I/O Board”</a>: Introduced to me by Pruttelherrie on FreeStompBoxes, this very simple system uses an ATTiny85 microcontroller to drive a single-coil latching relay. The code is available freely on the <a href="http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=24589" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">original FSB thread</a>. The parts count is very low, and so even on vero the board can be made small enough to fit just about anywhere. The switching quality is very good. The default power-up state can be toggled, which I think is a cool feature. After having used this circuit a few times, I like it a lot as well. The major disadvantage is the up-front entry cost and relative complexity; you’ll need something to program the microcontrollers and a computer of course, and there are a number of solutions of varying price to accomplish this. I chose to <a href="http://highlowtech.org/?p=1695" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">use an Arduino Uno as an in-system programmer</a>, which cost me all of $7 to set up. From there you can load the code onto the ATTiny85s, and you’re good to go. System cost is similar to the Andy Relay. Also recommended.
<br/><i>UPDATE September 2022</i> - I had been getting the ATTiny85-20PU microcontrollers for this project from Tayda, but due to the supply chain disruptions as a result of COVID, they have been out of stock of them for what may be years now. Fingers crossed they come back soon.
<br/><br/><a href="https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/a-simple-relay-bypass.16474/" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">Celestial Bypass:</a> I've been spending a lot of time on the <a href="https://forum.pedalpcb.com/" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">PedalPCB Community Forum</a> recently, and in that forum there is a lovely repository of expertise run by a gentleman that goes by Chuck D. Bones called, appropriately, "<a href="https://forum.pedalpcb.com/forums/chucks-boneyard.20/" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">Chuck's Boneyard</a>". One of the many circuit design and modification articles and discussions in his subforum contains his take on the <a href="https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb393/" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">PedalPCB Basic Relay Bypass module</a>, a low-parts-count inexpensive bypass module which uses a 555 timer to toggle and hold a non-latching relay. There are many attractive advantages to this design. Firstly, no microcontroller, transistors or large CMOS chips are required, which significantly cuts down on board size and setup complexity. Secondly, it has a low count (14) of extremely common components, which means that the total system cost is as low as $4 (based on Tayda and eBay prices). There are some clever design choices in this circuit that mean that it can drive any relay coil up to 9V without the need of a voltage regulator, and it allows the use of the 555's more modern CMOS cousin, the 7555 timer, for lower current draw. This turns out to be a useful feature, since the module's only disadvantage is the non-latching relay. Any such relay should work fine; I have been using Takamisawa A5W-K (the non-latching version of my favourite AL5WN-K) or NEC EA2-5. The circuit works fantastically well; this is truly a silver bullet for the "put a soft-latch in every pedal" dream.
<br/><br/>COMING SOON:
<br/><br/>Paulinthelab Soft Latch Daughterboard: One of the first DIY soft-latch systems to surface if I remember correctly, but not one without its issues. This one uses a transistor network to actuate a single-coil non-latching DPCO relay, and people have reported significant popping and poor isolation issues with this circuit. Although it is not included, this circuit needs a flyback diode across the relay coil, but even when this is added issues are still reported. Another major disadvantage is that since the relay it uses doesn’t latch, the coil must be energized as long as the pedal is engaged, making this unsuitable for a battery-powered build. Unit cost looks to be quite low. Previously I had dismissed this project as an inferior option compared to the others discussed above, but I think that I was being unfair in doing so given that I hadn't actually tried it myself, so I plan to do so and report back about it at some point.
<br/><br/>Demedash Incandenza: A super simple, low-parts-count and dirt-cheap relay bypass module based on a 555 flip-flop circuit. I'm working on trying this one out and will report back about it at some point.
<br/><br/>Thanks for reading! -updated August 2023.
<br/>
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<p>Posted in <a href="/How-To-s-amp-Guides-f24027.html">How To's & Guides</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50904DoD FX642023-08-23T14:54:41Z2023-08-23T14:54:41ZHunkFunkPedals
I've been trying to fix some shitty mods someone did to this board and its just not working. I already painted my enclosure out of hubris.
<br/><br/>Here's the schematic.
<br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50904/dod_fx-64-2.jpg" border="0"/>
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tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50903Tagboard 5-knob compressor2023-08-16T18:59:37Z2023-08-16T18:59:37Zjrh312
I know this is based on the Keeley Plus from what I can tell anyway. The Keeley has a "Single Coil / Humbucker" switch. This one does not. Does anyone know if this is more effective with singles or humbuckers?
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tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50894Basic Class A Mic Pre - Anyone Want To Do The Layout?2023-07-27T02:44:25Z2023-07-27T02:44:25Zcpsmusic
Hi All,
<br/><br/>I work in music and audio production and dabble in electronics. I'm interested in making a hardware saturator based on a class A mic preamp from DIYRE, but I don't have any experience doing stripboard layouts.
<br/><br/>I was hoping someone here might be interested enough to have a go at doing the layout.
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50894/JFT_mkII_Schematic.png" border="0"/><br/><br/>I could do it myself but it would probably take me 10x longer than someone who's had experience using the layout software and actually doing a few layouts.
<br/><br/>Cheers,
<br/><br/>Chris
<p>Posted in <a href="/Requests-f6.html">Requests</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50897Modded Crybaby with output buffer & without input buffer2023-08-01T05:29:13Z2023-08-04T17:20:25ZHeliosPAF
Hello! I want to build a Crybaby with some mods, without the input buffer but with an output buffer. I used the Rocket88 <b><a href="https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2017/03/dunlop-jc-95-cantrell-signature-wah.html" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">layouts </a></b>as a base and for the output buffer I used the <b><a href="http://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/axiswah.php" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">Axis Wah schematic</a></b>.
<br/><br/>Current doubts: Q3 drain needs direct connection to 9v? or is it ok as it is? Are the Wah3 and the trimpot/output ok?
<br/><br/>I am a newbie and this is the first layout i made, can someone please confirm that everything is ok.
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50897/cb.png" border="0"/><br/><br/>Output buffer:
<br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50897/axiswahschematic.gif" border="0"/><br/><br/>
<p>Posted in <a href="/Open-Chat-f3.html">Open Chat</a></p>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50895ProAnalog Manticore V2 - Squealing and farty decay2023-07-28T21:53:15Z2023-07-28T22:30:57ZHeliosPAF
I recently built this pedal with Anders' <a href="https://dirtboxlayouts.blogspot.com/2022/09/pro-analog-devices-manticore-v2.html" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external"><b>layout </b></a> at dirtbox layouts. Others builders had problems with this build but I wanted to give it a try since some errors were fixed.
<br/><br/>The thing is that I have similar problems to the ones mentioned in the comments, I have Squealing at 95% of the Gain control and with a farty decay at any gain level. I've tried a bunch of OpAmps and diodes and it didn't fix the problem.
<br/><br/>I'm not an expert in checking schematics but it seems that everything is fine. Someone built this same layout and later built it with the PedalPCB pcb which is based on the same schematic and had no problems.
<br/><br/><b>Voltages</b>:
<br/><br/><b>IC1</b><br/>1. 0
<br/>2. 0
<br/>3. 0
<br/>4. -8.51
<br/>5. 0
<br/>6. 0
<br/>7. 0
<br/>8. 8.73
<br/><br/><b>IC2</b><br/>1. 0
<br/>2. 0
<br/>3. 0
<br/>4. -8.52
<br/>5. 0
<br/>6. 0
<br/>7. 0
<br/>8. 8.73
<br/><br/><b>IC3 (MAx1044)</b><br/>1. 8.74
<br/>2. 4.33
<br/>3. 0
<br/>4. -4.28
<br/>5. -8.52
<br/>6. 4.14
<br/>7. 6.43
<br/>8. 8.73
<br/><br/><b>Schematic</b>: <a href="https://docs.pedalpcb.com/schematic/Schematic-Aphrodite.png" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://docs.pedalpcb.com/schematic/Schematic-Aphrodite.png</a><br/><br/><b>Notes</b>:
<br/>I reduced the 100uF cap at the bottom left corner to 10uF as fuzzhead suggest
<br/><br/>Any help or suggestions will be appreciated
<p>Posted in <a href="/Debugging-f23986.html">Debugging</a></p>