IBANEZ WH-10 DUAL POT

[willwaush]

I have already built the WH-10 layout that is on tagboardeffects by Ivlark, but that veroboard design belongs to the SINGLE POT schematic of the effect (there are two versions, single pot and dual pot...) and I don't like it too much. I would like to try the dual pot version, but there's only a schematic by Dirk Hendrik on the web, and I am not able to transfer it on overboard unfortunately.

I would really appreciate your help.

Here it is the real vintage Dual Pot schematic:

http://www.dirk-hendrik.com/wh10dualpot.pdf


PS: I would like to make this True Bypass and without the Dry Output stage, so that a lot of space is salvaged.

[jtrezzo]

Seconded!

[Alex]

You would get rid of Q2, 3, 6 and Dry Output part.
Would you keep Q5 up to C13 or you would get rid of that too?

[willwaush]

I really don't know... I was just asking for a veroboard layout of this schematic too!
The one available on tagboardeffects belongs to another version of this pedal...
The schematic that I posted is exactly like the V1 and the modern reissue V2. Ivlark's veroboard layout it's the black version of this pedal... but I don't really like its sound!

[Alex]

the schematics are not identical.
To draw a layout would be pretty easy but you've asked to make it true bypass and remove the Dry Output.
I'm not sure if Q5 should go or should remain.
Someone else may be able to pitch in.

[Ciaran Haslett]

Input to Q1
Source Q1 to C2 and C3
Out of U1A to gate of Q4
Add 510K gate Q4 to Vbias

Ignore Q2 and Q5 and the switching/dry out etc

That should be it

[Alex]

Thanks Ciaran.
Wasn't sure about Q5.

[willwaush]

Thank you guys!!
alex anyways I asked about making it true bypass and removing the dry stage just to simplify the vero layout.. but it's not necessary to me!
I just tought that without the dry out and that with a true bypass wiring it would be easier to shrink it down onto vero

anyways thank you for your help

[Alex]

Here you go.
It should match the schematic:

[willwaush]

Thank you, I will verify this as soon as my 50/500k pot comes. I have a question: what Jfets should I use to keep quite near to the original?

[Alex]

I assume pretty much any JFet would do the trick.

[willwaush]

HGi Alex. I finally managed to build this, but sadly it doesn't work.
Here there are some pictures of the board etc.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B0zMctdC-Kv-TFBBdWZiZTRwZFk

I used some subs.
I didn't have 12n caps (made 56n + 15n series, or 10n+2,2n parallel).
I didn't have original JFets so I used 2N5457.
I didn't have the LM358 (here in Italy it's kind hard to find this, don't ask me why ) and so I replaced it with LM1458.

That's all.

Ps: should I ask this in debugging?
Pps: Could you check the P1 and P2 connections? Because inside the original only legs 1 and 2 are used on both the 50k and 500k)

[Alex]

In the picture one of the transistor's legs is not connected.
Have you pass a knife between the tracks?
Do you have voltages?
Not sure about the P1 & 2 legs.
I've followed the schematic but u can try to connect legs 1 & 2 in case.
I would check the other things first.

[willwaush]

Yeah, transistr leg not connected. I am sorry!! It now works and makes the wha wha effects, but it doesn't sounds quite like the original to me... in the open position it's ok, but when you roll the wha wha back it becomes noisy and the guitar tends to disappear. If I touch the enclosure this problem tends to disappear (but not significantly) even though the enclosure is properly grounded with the jacks.

May it be because of the sostitutions that I made? Is the LM1458 fully compatible or should I try to get the original IC? Don't know anyways if getting the original is going to make this work...

Anyways, the pots should go from this

P1 - 1
P1 - 2
P2 - 3
P2 - 2

to this

P1 - 1
P1 - 2
P2 - 1
P2 - 2

P1 doesn't seems to do a lot. P2 changes the sweep of the wha. I placed P1 on 50k and p2 on the 500k side. The sweep is working right, but the effect is noisy, and gated in the up toel position... like when you plug into a fuzz with no 9v, you hear that ground sound made by the strings!

Any ideas?

[willwaush]

I checked, and the subs seem reasonable to me... at this point, could you implement the schematic without cutting out the Dry Out and Bypass stage? I don't mind including those in the build, as I can leave the dry out unconnected, and use a 3PDT to get the True Bypass as well...

[willwaush]

No one can help me implementing onto vero the full schematic layout..?

[Ciaran Haslett]

Hey Will

Adding the switching circuitry back in will not affect the audio path at all so it's not really worth it to try.  The only possible problems will be a build error, faulty component, layout error or schematic error.  

As you are the only person to attempt it only you can say for sure.

[willwaush]

Build error - possible, but I have checked it hundred times, so it seems ok to me..
faulty component - yeah, sure, in fact I tried building another one but with the same results!
layout error - could be possible, but I don't know since I really am a noob in terms of veroing a schematic
schematic error - it is not possible.. some people already built this successfully using this schematic! and it is also traced from an original pedal, so I don't think that this is the case..

[Alex]

What Ciaran said is correct.
I've checked the layout again and matches the schematic.
Do you have voltages?

[willwaush]

IC voltages

4.37
4.37
4.34
0
4.35
4.37
4.38
8.83

Left J-fet from top to bottom:
2.40
1.85
8.84

Right J-fet from top to bottom:
8.83
7.25
2.87