Klon help!!

[jwseong]

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/05/klon-centaur-with-optional-bass-control.html

9V -> 9.52V power in

IC1
4.76
4.76
3.66
0
4.74
4.77
4.77
9.52

IC2
4.75
4.76
4.76
-8.79
4.74
4.76
4.79
17.91

IC3
9.51
4.73
0
-4.45
-8.8
5.6
6.36
9.51









Also, please correct my wiring. I've connected Volume2&Sw6 as wire from board -> vol2 -> sw6.
And I connected Output&sw5 as wire from board -> output -> sw5.

This is my 2nd build, my first build was the silver edition, and bypass sound was normal, but the engaged effect didnt have any gain, CCW made bright but clean sound, CW gain made muddy and lower output. Tone seemed to be fine.
This 2nd build is regular version, with additional fat switch and soft switch.
And bypass is not working correctly, Somehow volume controls the bypass signal.
Gain control still not working. Soft Switch and Fat switches don't seem to work either.
HELP ME!!

[jwseong]

So bypass works as it should now, just the GAIN is not working correctly. I've replaced the pot, still no luck. I disconnected fat switch and soft switch, still no luck.
Bright and loud on CCW of gain, and soft and dull on CW of gain.

[IvIark]

I've checked your back of board pic against the cuts on the layout and it looks ok, but a lot of those joints look cold to me, many of the are very dull and it could be a good sign that there is a bad connection within there somewhere.  Personally I'd reflow a lot of those joints just to make sure you are making good connections with them all.

But with your voltages looking pretty good I would start on the reflowing the solder on the wires to pots and input/output sockets, because that suggests that the main part of the circuit is correct and working as expected, all all it takes is a cold joint on a wire going to the output (for instance) to stop it working

[jwseong]

Gain is problematic so I re wired gains from pot and to board.. still same.

2015. 3. 6. 오후 12:41에 "IvIark [via Guitar FX Layouts]" <[hidden email]>님이 작성:

I've checked your back of board pic against the cuts on the layout and it looks ok, but a lot of those joints look cold to me, many of the are very dull and it could be a good sign that there is a bad connection within there somewhere.  Personally I'd reflow a lot of those joints just to make sure you are making good connections with them all.

But with your voltages looking pretty good I would start on the reflowing the solder on the wires to pots and input/output sockets, because that suggests that the main part of the circuit is correct and working as expected, all all it takes is a cold joint on a wire going to the output (for instance) to stop it working

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NAML

[Silver Blues]

I agree, you have a lot of cold joints there. Good joints should be shiny and even-looking, and hold fast under moderate pressure. Get in the habit of testing every joint you make with an ohmmeter until you really get a feel for what's good and what's not - an ideal joint would read 0ohm on the meter. Heck, I'd go so far as to call myself an expert solderhand and I still do this.

[jwseong]

Thanks guys. I had to reflow all of them.  It works now. This pedal isnt a bright sounding guitar compares to morning glory or timmy..

2015. 3. 6. 오후 5:39에 "Silver Blues [via Guitar FX Layouts]" <[hidden email]>님이 작성:

I agree, you have a lot of cold joints there. Good joints should be shiny and even-looking, and hold fast under moderate pressure. Get in the habit of testing every joint you make with an ohmmeter until you really get a feel for what's good and what's not - an ideal joint would read 0ohm on the meter. Heck, I'd go so far as to call myself an expert solderhand and I still do this.

I stand watching the steam-liners roll by...

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NAML

[jwseong]

I also think that the clipping diodes dont do anything to my sound. I used red Led and 4148s

2015. 3. 6. 오후 5:39에 "Silver Blues [via Guitar FX Layouts]" <[hidden email]>님이 작성:

I agree, you have a lot of cold joints there. Good joints should be shiny and even-looking, and hold fast under moderate pressure. Get in the habit of testing every joint you make with an ohmmeter until you really get a feel for what's good and what's not - an ideal joint would read 0ohm on the meter. Heck, I'd go so far as to call myself an expert solderhand and I still do this.

I stand watching the steam-liners roll by...

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NAML

[Silver Blues]

Eh? I see what look like D9-series diodes on your board but no LED or a 4148.

EDIT oh wait I think the bottom right red diode might be it, but it looks too fat for a 4148? Sorry I don't know that much about the Klon

[jwseong]

Oh on Soft clipping switch.

2015. 3. 6. 오후 6:29에 "Silver Blues [via Guitar FX Layouts]" <[hidden email]>님이 작성:

Eh? I see what look like D9-series diodes on your board but no LED or a 4148.

I stand watching the steam-liners roll by...

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NAML

[Silver Blues]

Ohh.