Modified BeeBaa Help

[rocket88]

so i'm back to working on something i wanted to do since february when i heard about the black arts toneworks black sheep, which is essentially a BeeBaa with a "depth" switch, not much different then the black forest which is an overdriver and "depth" switch. my understanding is that the depth switch in the black forest is an input cap selector switch, so my idea is take the BeeBaa, remove the input cap, and add the cap selector switch, and obviously play around with some other caps to alter the tone, and frequency response to get some more low end. McNasty was nice enough to draw up this layout



and here's the schematic with marked out places for some mods


i just cut the boards, and made my cuts in both the input cap selector board and BeeBaa board poster above. now the problem is i don't see an input cap in the BeeBaa. i've been looking to find a gut shot of the black sheep to see what i'm missing, but the best i found is a quick glimpse of the rear of the circuit board on the intro video, which shows the switch being soldered in, and it looks like it switches between 4 caps. but no idea where they are/could be connected.


any idea's how to approach this? i love the fuzz of the BeeBaa, but definitely want to get it a deeper, darker, grittier, more focused sound out of it like the black sheep. and having the a selector switch would make this super versatile.

btw, here's what the black sheep sounds like on bass. f***ing amazing if you ask me.

[induction]

The input cap is C1. Just replace the 1uF cap all the way on the left with leads to your selector switch.

Obviously, you can always mess with the coupling caps as well, if you like (C5, C6, C9 & C12).

[rocket88]

thanks induction. i was thinking that c1 could be the input cap since it's the first cap after the input, but it's polarized, which i've never seen before. it i put that on a selector do i need to keep the cap polarized? also, why would an input cap be polarized?

[induction]

It doesn't have to be polarized. It's marked that way because caps 1uF and higher tend to be electrolytic. If you do use a polarized cap, you have to respect the polarity shown in the schematic, even if it's on a switch. But it's easy to find 1uF film or non-polar electrolytic caps these days. You can always use non-polar caps in place of polar caps.

[rocket88]

ahh, that makes sense. i don't know why i didn't think about that considering that when i look at all my caps the highest poly's i have are 1uF. some times it's the simplest explanation you don't think of.