I'm assuming that voltages to the left of the Off position are DC, and to the right are AC. Put it at the 20V position at 10 o'clock and get the pin voltages again
On Jan 30, 2014, at 6:24 PM, "IvIark [via Guitar FX Layouts]" <[hidden email]> wrote:
I'm assuming that voltages to the left of the Off position are DC, and to the right are AC. Put it at the 20V position at 10 o'clock and get the pin voltages again
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I see two resistors on your build with the wrong values:
You have what looks like a 4.7k attached to pin 4 that should be a 47k.
You have what looks like a 6.8k attached to the transistor gate that should be 68k.
wow dude. i seriously love you man. i changed it... and also the wire to vol 3 snapped, so i changed that... plugged it in, it works with some noise. i think i had a couple of bridges and cold joints cause my iron was being stupid... did all that and it's perfect now man. thank you so much, you have no idea what this means to me. i just started making pedals a couple of months ago off and on and have been discouraged after some things don't work or whatever but lately it's been going good till this build. So I'm so happy I got this one working. It's my first vero layout that works. Again man thank you so so so much. Much appreciated.
On a side-bonus note... do you know what I can mod in order to make the tone a littler warmer possibly? Just a little because I don't want to lose the transparency
To make it warmer, I can think of two possibilities.
1. The input cap is 47n. Try increasing it. Maybe start with 100n and see if you want to go higher.
2. The coupling caps are 100n. (The first one is attached to lug 3 of the Drive pot, the second one is on the bottom row of the layout.) You could try increasing these as well. I'd start with the second one first, maybe use 220n to start.
3. If you increase the 470pF feedback cap, that should make it warmer in bright cut mode, but will leave it stock in bright mode. If you instead put a 100p (or so) in the two empty holes near the 470p (one just below the 470p, attached to SW 2, the other between the SW 1 and SW 2 wires), that will warm it up in both modes.)
You can try any or all of these options. I would start with the second coupling cap first because I think that would change the distortion character the least, but I could be wrong. You'll have to use your ear to choose the final values.
hey man. i just built another one of these to make for my friend. it works perfect... the only problem is that the switch is popping :( i built it the same way. the only i changed was a made the LED blue, dunno how that would make a difference but yeah. i've tried everything, i have no idea how to fix it :(
I tried all of these mods with a toggle switch and I couldn't really tell a huge difference.
1. I went all the way up to 1uf and there was not big difference.
2. I tried both of these caps all the way up to 1uf and again no big difference.
3. I went up to 570pf and there was no huge difference but I liked it enough and left it at 570pf.
I'm assuming that it's tough to get a good bass boost mod/switch in this circuit, without changing the original sound too much. Hence why AnalogMan, JHS, and Keisman don't offer this option.
i fixed it. it was the 2.2uf cap flipped.
I actually built another one for my friend. it's doing some weird stuff. I plug the power in, the pedal does what it's supposed to do for about 5-8 seconds. then it makes this weird rocket ship sound and fades to nothing. so weird.
Do you have any idea why this could be? I checked everything I could think of.
My IC ship is giving some weird readings:
8.06 9.12
7.86 8.16
4.61 7.46
0 8.72
if you could please help, i'd appreciate it so much. i have no idea why this is happening :(