Newbie...question with fuzz.

[rtman26]

OK, so first off, I admit it....I don't know much about electronic components (resistors, caps, diodes, etc.), but I can trace signal flow (wiring guitars)...and these vero layouts make it very easy.   Or so I though.

This is the first one I've tried to build, and I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong

Silicon Fuzz

When the effect is off, sound passes through to my amp no problem, but as soon as I click the switch no sound.  Assuming the layout is correct, where should I be putting my mm to check voltage or even continuity...?  Oh, I'm using the exact parts on the list.  Are there any disadvantages to using overrated parts? (50v caps vs 16V?)

I've assembled this thing twice (thank god these parts are cheap...otherwise I'd be grumpy) and have no idea what I'm doing wrong.  PLEASE HELP!!!

Tomorrow, I'll sketch up my how I have everything connected and hopefully you guys can end my frustration...

[GoranP]

First of all, welcome! Hope you stick around after you've debugged your build.

Second, it could be any number of things. It's either the offboard wiring (which scheme did you use?) or the board itself. It's good that you are getting any signal coming through, at least your jacks and (parts of) the stompswitch are wired properly.

As for the rest of your problems, post some (in-focus!) pictures of the solder side and the wiring and let's see if we can help you get this thing working.

Did you knife the gaps after soldering the components? Unless there's a bigger mistake, it could easily be a solder bridge at an unfortunate location (been there).

[Geiri]

You can use caps with higher voltage and it won't make any difference. As long as values are right (or close), it will work.

My method of debugging is simple and usually works fairly quickly.
1. Use a hacksaw to clean the tracks between the strips. Often works very well.
2. Check the wiring VERY carefully. I check every single connection and see if the other end is at the right place. You need to be focused as it's really easy to just kind of drift off and think "oh yeah it looks properly connected"
3. Check socketed components. If you have anything in sockets like an opamp or transistor. Try swapping them out and see if there's any difference. Even have the effect turned on and see if it makes any sounds when you swap them. If you can hear something, then you know that offboard is fine and there's something wrong with the board.
4. Check hole by hole to see if every component is placed correctly.

Usually I've got it working before the last step but I've had to go all the way through a few times because I'm human and every once in awhile, I misplace a component or just one of the wires from it.

If you've got a layout that's verified, always assume that the problem is on your end, not the layout.

Good luck!

[rtman26]

Thanks for the welcome and don't worry....I don't give up  easily...

I currently have a different layout wired, because I got frustrated with the other one not working, but the board is still complete just not in the box.  I'll re-wire it and take some pics for you guys and post later on. But let me double check a few things first.  

I used the offboard wiring within the "silicon fuzz" link pic above with one minor change:  I changed to a 3pdt switch with an led+resistor wired to the center "on" poles, but it wasn't working either so I just removed the wiring and will come back later.  Obviously I have something crossed somewhere, I just haven't found it yet.  

Just to make sure I'm reading the stereo 1/4" wiring correctly:  tip goes to center lug of one pole, ring goes to 9v- (which just grounds it because it's not a balanced cable correct?), and the sleeve is the ground for the board.  The pic shows a direct connection between the grounds of both jacks so I did that.  Anything about that offboard that seems strange to you.  

At first I tried to combine ideas from the first layout I posted with this true bypass wiring, but it didn't work either so I jumped back to the K.I.S.S. principle.  

It doesn't look like anything is bridged, but I'll grab a bright light and double check it when I connect it back to the box.  Oh, I also switched the sides that the in and out jacks were on....because to me they are backwards in the first pic.  

Unless....*may have just realized something hilariously, pathetically, simple*.......I assumed the stereo was in.....and it's actually......out.