tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:forum-3Nabble - Open Chat2024-03-29T06:47:51Ztag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-51022Status of Tagboard Effects2024-03-24T18:06:46Z2024-03-24T18:06:46ZOrson
|V|ark,
<br/><br/>I am apparently less than observant. After registering, logging in and posting, it was some time before I noticed that this site has slowed down dramatically. I'm not going to ask your reasons, I'll only say I hope all is well with you. If not, I hope it is again soon.
<br/><br/>I didn't notice that the posting of new layouts has slowed the last few years. Beginning in 2019 it took a dip, but seemed to resume in 2023. Finally, in 2024, it is down to four projects so far, but we're only three months into the year.
<br/><br/>I hope this isn't impertinent or what have you, but should those of us who want to build these projects begin downloading the layout images and saving them? Will this site remain active and present on the internet, or is this just temporary? I'd help support this site in anyway I can, rather than lose such an *amazing* resource, such as you and other have created here.
<br/><br/>Please let me know, and thank you for your time here in the last few days.
<br/><br/>Orson
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-51021Return of the Son of SHOD2024-03-22T19:18:13Z2024-03-22T19:18:13ZOrson
Got the SHOD up and running. Everything works. Changed the gain pot for A1M to increase the gain.
<br/><br/>What I haven't been able to quite sort out is how to reduce the bass. It's bass heavy and the overdriven sound is really flubby sounding, like the bass is happening *before* the clipping happens.
<br/><br/>Can someone suggest a way to alter the pedal so it's less bass heavy?
<br/><br/>I'm noticing that there aren't many if any posts in this part of the forum from 2024. Is there a more active place to ask questions?
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-51008SHOD question2024-03-21T11:03:36Z2024-03-21T11:03:36ZOrson
Hi,
<br/><br/>I'm new here, but I've been building the vero layouts by |V| and others here for a long time. I laid off for a very long time (years) due to family stuff, and am now picking it back up.
<br/><br/>I have assembled a SHOD (2nd layout). I'm stuck because the out put on the switch doesn't go to the vero board as is so often the case. The output apparently comes from volume 2 to the output jack. So is the output on the switch not used? Do I just leave that switch lug unwired and wire the vol 2 to the output jack?
<br/><br/>Thanks!
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-20Introductions2013-01-17T15:26:48Z2013-01-17T15:26:48ZOlav
There's a thread like this on every forum I visit. We all want to know who we're talking to, don't we?
<br/>Might be opportune to let Mark and Miro kick it off.
<br/>So, who are you?
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50994Diode clipping switch Tycobrahe Octavia2024-03-13T01:29:22Z2024-03-13T01:29:22ZDutcheffects
Dear all,
<br/><br/>a while a go I build the Tycobrahe Octavia, <a href="https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/04/tycobrahe-octavia.html" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/04/tycobrahe-octavia.html</a>. But now i want to give it some extra options. I have 2 vintage GE diodes, Fv 0.3v, and 2 silicon diodes, Fv 0.7v and i want to be able to switch between these, to alter the sound of the octave. But I also want to keep the possiblity to lift 1 diode, so I can have a standard fuzz without an octave. Is this possible with a DPDT On-Off-On switch? How do I wire this.
<br/><br/>Thanx for the tips.
<br/><br/>With regards,
<br/><br/>Dutcheffects
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-8569Show your pedal guts!2014-03-14T16:32:57Z2014-03-18T00:04:56ZGeiri
Guys, I can't believe there isn't a thread like this here! If there is, sorry but I couldn't find one.
<br/><br/>Since this is a DIY community here, let's share pictures of the insides of our pedals. That way we can inspire each other and possibly learn from what others are doing.
<br/><br/>I'll get the ball rolling:
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n8569/IMG_0055.jpg" border="0"/><br/>Analogman KOT
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n8569/IMG_0152.jpg" border="0"/><br/>Klon using Pedal Parts PCBs that I used to use but now have a new design for myself.
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n8569/IMG_0361.jpg" border="0"/><br/>Owly Booster
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n8569/IMG_0382.jpg" border="0"/><br/>Marbleverb
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n8569/IMG_0429.jpg" border="0"/><br/>Klon buffer
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n8569/IMG_0593.jpg" border="0"/><br/>Tap tempo
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n8569/IMG_0873.jpg" border="0"/><br/>Growly
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n8569/IMG_0912.jpg" border="0"/><br/>Marshall Shredmaster
<br/><br/>I'd love to see what you guys have been doing! <img class='smiley' src='/images/smiley/anim_claps.gif' />
<div class="signature weak-color">
www.pedalprojects.com
<br/>www.facebook.com/pedalprojects
</div>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50976'Pre-gain' control for Tonebender Mark 3?2024-01-08T17:34:32Z2024-01-08T17:34:32Ztracer03
I had a request to build a Tonebender Mark 3 with a 'pre-gain' control (basically an input level control that would emulate changes to the guitar's volume knob, so he could 'set and forget') - I'm using a modified version of the Mark 3 layout with an onboard voltage inverter.
<br/><br/>I modified the Park Fuzz Three-knob layout from here: <a href="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/Original-Park-Fuzz-3-knobbie-and-2-knobbie-td21269.html" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">Original Park-Fuzz-3-knobbie-and-2-knobbie</a><br/><br/>My plan was to route the guitar signal input to lug 2 of the pot, wire lug 1 to ground and lug 3 to the circuit input. Using a 500k Rev Log pot (to simulate the guitar's volume control - Strat).
<br/>Would there be any issues with doing this? Thanks in advance.
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50903Tagboard 5-knob compressor2023-08-16T18:59:37Z2023-08-16T18:59:37Zjrh312
I know this is based on the Keeley Plus from what I can tell anyway. The Keeley has a "Single Coil / Humbucker" switch. This one does not. Does anyone know if this is more effective with singles or humbuckers?
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50897Modded Crybaby with output buffer & without input buffer2023-08-01T05:29:13Z2023-08-04T17:20:25ZHeliosPAF
Hello! I want to build a Crybaby with some mods, without the input buffer but with an output buffer. I used the Rocket88 <b><a href="https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2017/03/dunlop-jc-95-cantrell-signature-wah.html" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">layouts </a></b>as a base and for the output buffer I used the <b><a href="http://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/axiswah.php" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">Axis Wah schematic</a></b>.
<br/><br/>Current doubts: Q3 drain needs direct connection to 9v? or is it ok as it is? Are the Wah3 and the trimpot/output ok?
<br/><br/>I am a newbie and this is the first layout i made, can someone please confirm that everything is ok.
<br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50897/cb.png" border="0"/><br/><br/>Output buffer:
<br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50897/axiswahschematic.gif" border="0"/><br/><br/>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50858Master Effects goes international :o)2023-06-24T03:59:57Z2023-06-24T03:59:57ZPavlos
Just seen this for sale on ebay in the UK, brings a warm feeling of pride the the heart to see that one of our own has come so far <img class='smiley' src='/images/smiley/anim_claps.gif' /><br/><br/>Master Effects - The Golden Ratio
<br/><br/><a href="https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385687266578?hash=item59ccc0a512:g:21gAAOSwZbBka5f5" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385687266578?hash=item59ccc0a512:g:21gAAOSwZbBka5f5</a><br/><br/>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-8437Adding Blend Control2014-03-05T22:42:00Z2014-03-05T22:42:00Zrocket88
Hey guys, I got a possibly silly question. I've been building lots of fuzzes to work with bass as well as guitar, and was thinking that it might be a good idea to add a blend control to help preserve some of the natural punch of my bass so it doesn't get lost in the mix. I figure the Split and Blend would be perfect for the job, but two issues of concern.
<br/><br/>First is the hookup inside the pedal instead of the as a stand alone pedal as show in the layout. Should it be:
<br/>IN --> 3PDT IN Lug
<br/>OUT --> 3PDT OUT Lug
<br/>SEND --> FX INPUT
<br/>RECEIVE --> FX OUTPUT
<br/><br/>Second, would I need to add a booster to preserve output level of the original circuit this is being added to. If so, in front of the blend or after?
<br/><br/>Third, would I need to do any changes to the blend circuit to keep the low end or should it be fine as is?
<div class="signature weak-color">
<a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Champion-City-Effects/478986288944366?fref=ts" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://www.facebook.com/pages/Champion-City-Effects/478986288944366?fref=ts</a><br/><br/><a href="https://instagram.com/championcityeffects/" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://instagram.com/championcityeffects/</a><br/><br/><a href="https://soundcloud.com/user-850978634" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://soundcloud.com/user-850978634</a>
</div>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50845Madbean Cave Dweller 2015 no delay effect2023-05-30T18:33:58Z2023-06-11T19:07:50ZLoganG85
<b>CONTENTS DELETED</b>
<div class="weak-color">The author has deleted this message.</div>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50840Show Yor Tribute and Gratitude!2023-05-29T02:19:36Z2023-05-29T02:30:28ZNeil mcNasty
<b>Reply to this post with the reason why you love this site!</b><br/><br/><i>Letting people know that they are appreciated is important to communicate!
<br/>People forget to do that, and the world can quickly become a lonely place if one is lacking such.
<br/>A small note of appreciation on the other hand, can make a world of a difference at the other end! A slight smile from an unknown passer-by, can warm a lonely heart for an entire day!</i><br/><br/><b>Here’s why I have passion for this site:</b><br/>This is where it all started for me, after my friend challanged me to build a pedal myself, rather than bying one of his DIY pedals.
<br/>As soon as I knew what a veroboard was, this site drew my attention: clean, tidy, indexed, categorized, linked, and most importantly: Verification of layouts with troubleshooting team efforts to guide you through any unforseen obsatcles that you might encounter.
<br/><br/>Yes there are places that give you more information and a higher knowledge level, but they are not as a good experience (as a user) as this site. I’ve learned more from the stuff that goes on here, than most other sites!
<br/><br/>Since then it has taken me on a journey of learning electronics that I would not have imagined, when initially starting out. The stuff I am able to design and build, due to this humble start, has created a limitless creative potential. I build my own studio gear and synthesizers now. 😎
<br/>The stuff I can do now, compared to before, is simply staggering!
<br/>The ammount of people I have been able to help, is a reward in it self!
<br/>It has brought me places I never imagined, creating sounds I never imagined!
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50839Spam invading the forum and lack of activity…2023-05-29T02:02:44Z2023-05-29T02:02:44ZNeil mcNasty
So what is the future of this site?
<br/>Are there any moderators here anymore?
<br/>Have people migrated elsewhere?
<br/>If so: it is a shame that the largest collection of verified vero layouts ends up being abanoned and potentially sliding down the memory hole…
<br/><br/>Now the forum is being spammed my mushroom sellers, indicating security breach or lack of moderation.
<br/>This is not a good sign and has dire effects on the traffic (people might eventually leave and do not return if such things repeat or remain)
<br/><br/>I bet you that if you take all the layouts and put them on a new website with some bling and buzzwords added, it will become a highly popular site…
<br/>Which is not a bad idea if there are more serious reasons for the low activity (sad things do happen…)
<br/><br/>Anyways… I am saddened by the collapse in activity, and hope that everybody is ok, wherever they are….
<br/><br/><b>Know that you are highly appreciated and that your immense efforts and contributions reaches further than you might imagine.
<br/>You have been teachers of proportions beyond anything you find in any classroom!
<br/>The patience and friendship that has been present, has made this a wonderfull arena for learning!
<br/>That is important to know! Many of us would not get to where we are without your help!</b>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50760FIRST LAYOUT EVER! Chase tone secret pre. Kind critiques, please?!2023-04-15T07:40:52Z2023-04-15T07:40:52ZDrayve85
<img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50760/436A8DFA-EFA1-4F6C-B77C-8CB2EC6D7A8A.jpeg" border="0"/>Ok, so, this is the first time that made a vero layout from the schematic that I had. I used a power supply layout from this site, and added the circuit. I know it could probably be a smaller tighter layout, so I’m hoping any one will help. I know the layout works cuz I built it and have been using it for over a year. My apologies if this is the wrong place to post it. Also, if feel free to use this layout anyone, anyway you’d like. It’s a great sounding circuit, and I use it as an ‘always on’ pedal. Thanks in advance.<a href="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50760/C61A3DDC-6680-4AA2-84EB-74805FF2345C.jpeg" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">C61A3DDC-6680-4AA2-84EB-74805FF2345C.jpeg</a>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50756Electric Mistress2023-03-20T16:13:56Z2023-03-20T16:13:56Zjrh312
Anyone have a link to an Electric Mistress build? I found a monster ADA flanger build I might try if I can't find a good Mistress layout.
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50754Missing Layouts???2023-03-17T13:51:43Z2023-03-17T13:51:43Zrefused
Am I crazy or are there missing layouts after January 3rd?
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50749Help identify this circuit2023-03-09T09:36:51Z2023-03-09T09:36:51ZmollyT pedals
Trying to identify this circuit. Been out of the game for a while, so my apologies in advance. I did a google image search but didn’t find a direct match. <a href="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50749/92BD5751-64C2-4B37-83DE-E38A68E1EE19.jpeg" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">92BD5751-64C2-4B37-83DE-E38A68E1EE19.jpeg</a>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50748EWS Little Brute Overdrive2023-03-06T10:01:47Z2023-03-06T10:01:47ZNRK
Hi!
<br/><br/>I found this on the forum;
<br/><br/><a href="https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2017/10/ews-little-brute-drive.html" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2017/10/ews-little-brute-drive.html</a><br/><br/>I see towards the end some questions about the circuit that remain unanswered.
<br/><br/>Does anyone know if these issues have been resolved?
<br/><br/>Thanks!
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50648Are All Overdrives Made From the Same Basics?2022-12-04T05:02:14Z2022-12-04T05:02:14ZDogBox
Hi Y'all,
<br/>From looking at some YouTube videos and looking over some circuits - it seems like there is a basic type of Layout to follow in the same way Fuzz Pedals have that "Fuzz Face/Tone Bender" type Layout... so the Overdrive will take on the Blues Breaker type basic Layout...
<br/> Is this just because of the Laws of electronics dictate that things are done this way OR is it because you can't get the desired "effect" by doing it another way?
<br/> I have seen the different types of guitar Tube/Solid State Amplifiers and how they can vary but when it comes to Effect Pedals, there doesn't seem to be the variation in design/circuit?
<br/> Please tell me i'm wrong and don't know what i'm talking about... <img class='smiley' src='/images/smiley/anim_confused.gif' /><br/><br/>DogBox [Steve]
<br/><br/>...
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-4684Looking for Compressor Suggestions2013-06-27T12:20:48Z2013-06-27T12:20:48Zstringfellow_Hawke
I've never owned or played though a compressor, so I'm considering building one next. I found a vero layout for the Philosopher's Tone over at FSB and I'm leaning towards that one, but I thought I'd look to the peanut gallery for suggestions before I make my decision. So, what's your favorite compressor and why?
<br/><br/><img class='smiley' src='/images/smiley/anim_drunk.gif' />
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50731How to do a vero cut on a breadboard2023-02-16T10:20:23Z2023-02-16T10:20:23Zjimcirello
Hi all, I'm new to this and want to breadboard a pedal layout before building it. I'm wondering what to do in the breadboard where there is a cut shown in the vero layout.
<br/><br/>Thanks!
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50723Crazy Horse Clone question2023-02-06T11:35:55Z2023-02-06T11:35:55ZRatiug
The Crazy Horse pedal schematic show a diffused green LED used for a volts potentiometer that starves the voltage.
<br/>Can this LED also be used as the pedal on indicator?<img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50723/Screenshot_20230206-124407.png" border="0"/>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50630Hello, again!2022-11-09T16:45:37Z2022-11-09T16:45:37ZChris60601
Not much more to say but hello to some of you old friends
<div class="signature weak-color">
Yeah, 220, 221. Whatever it takes.
<br/>
</div>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50702Huminator for 15V2023-01-09T15:41:45Z2023-01-09T15:41:45ZChris mudd
Hello all!!
<br/>I have an acoustic preamp pedal that I am using that has its own 15 volt power supply.
<br/><br/>Last night, I used it in public for the 1st time and noticed just a tiny bit of hum. I don't want to plug into the house system and add any more noise.
<br/><br/>I would like to use something like the Huminator to filter the power supply but have only seen one used for a 9 volt power supply.
<br/><br/>Does the tagboard/beavis huminator work "as is" for 15 volts, or does it take some kind of modification to handle the extra voltage?
<br/><br/>THANKS!!!!
<br/>Chris
<br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50702/Screen_Shot_2023-01-09_at_2.png" border="0"/>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-33400First t00b amp build2016-10-08T12:56:26Z2016-10-08T12:56:26ZTravis
Whassup dudes?? I'm starting my first tube amp build over here, thought I'd share.
<br/><br/>It's a Fender 5e3 clone. Got classic tone transformers, mojotone chassis and fiberboard, sprague atoms, Russian PIOs (and one sprague PIO), NOS tubes, etc etc
<br/><br/>The 5W resistor on the left of the board is unsoldered right meow because I think it looks a little out of place. Gonna replace it with a different type :P
<br/><br/><img src="http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/zz176/Dub-T-123/E3E7DF78-3779-459C-A644-5968BECBB3A5_zpsb8oi53l7.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo E3E7DF78-3779-459C-A644-5968BECBB3A5_zpsb8oi53l7.jpg"/><br/><img src="http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/zz176/Dub-T-123/0434EA9E-A464-481D-AE08-8A2BFB07C326_zpsss7mrufg.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 0434EA9E-A464-481D-AE08-8A2BFB07C326_zpsss7mrufg.jpg"/>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50627DIY Hi-Fi Headphone Build?2022-11-07T11:03:57Z2022-11-07T11:03:57ZSeaWitch
Has anyone out here built their own headphones?
<br/><br/>I'm looking for a decent kit, or any feedback on building a nice set of over the ear headphones. Does not need to be ultra audiophile, but something nice for music listening and 4-track monitoring.
<br/><br/>Let me know...thanks!
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50556DIY custom sized stripboards2022-07-23T23:18:48Z2022-10-13T08:54:36ZMAO
I recently had a request for a pedal with a layout size of 22 x 24. And somehow unknowingly had run out of the larger stripboards. So I pieced one together using the smaller sized Tayda board and a leftover scrap from a previous build.
<br/><br/>It worked out so well thought it might be worth sharing. So far I have successfully made and populated 3 boards using the following process without any fails...not yet anyway.
<br/><br/>Total time spent wasn't all that much more than my normal process, maybe added 15-20 minutes of actual work time. Just the extra time for filing (10 mins), scraping (10 mins) and waiting for the glue to set (while I ate dinner).
<br/><br/>Too many times my scrap pieces were just 1 or 2 rows shy of what I needed and I ended up cutting down or purchasing new veros. Now I can finally make use of the scraps I've accumulated over the years for seemingly no good reason.
<br/><br/>Hope someone finds this useful. As always, suggestions welcomed.
<br/><br/><b>1. Cut the appropriate sizes which will eventually be glued together. In the pictured example, I needed a 21x26 board, so I cut a 21x16 from the smaller sized Tayda vero and a 21x10 from a previous leftover scrap. (When deciding on the sizes of the two boards to be joined, be sure all of the fixed spaced components such as ICs, transistors and trimmers will only be installed on one board or the other, not jumping across from one board to the other as there may be a larger spacing between holes across the two boards. Resistors, capacitors, jumpers etc are ok to jump across the two boards as their hole spacing isn't as critical)</b>
<br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/step1.png" border="0"/><br/><br/><b> 2. File down at least the two mating edges, making a smooth, straight edge for glueing. I found running the board across the file and flipping the board around every now and then made it quick and kept the edge fairly even across. I just filed until the spacing of the holes of the mating edges looked somewhat uniform to the rest when joined together. The mating edge hole spacing doesn't have to be perfect since there will not be any ICs or such bridging the two per step 1 </b><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_170947_HDR.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><b>3. Use a finer file to clean up the sharp edges. </b><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_171950.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><b>4.Make all the cuts on both boards. Best done before glueing. It was helpful to have a reverse image printed with an indicator showing where the two halves will be joined. (the horizontal white line). Note there are no fixed spaced components bridging both halves (such as ICs)
<br/></b> <img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_174945.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><b>5. Lightly run the copper sides over the fine file to both clean up the cuts, and to remove any ozidation from the traces. Although not shown, double check the two mating edges will fit together well. </b><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/step5.png" border="0"/><br/><br/><b>6. Check continuity across the cuts and correct if necessary. Best to have applied any needed downward pressure to the individual boards before glueing </b><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_173512.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><b>7. Although not shown, clean the mating edges with alcohol. Flip the top board over, now copper side down, and place a piece of tape all the way across the mating edge, cut slightly wider and leaving 1/2 of the tape's width hanging over that mating edge. Be sure to tape across the proper edge (ask me how I know)</b><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/Step7.png" border="0"/><br/><br/>8.<b> Flip the taped top board back over so the copper side and sticky side of the exposed tape are facing up. Line up the mating edge's holes and while making sure you have a tight fit along the joined edges, press the lower board down onto the exposed tape. I found it easiest to come in at an angle. Double check the two halves are butted up well </b><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_175233.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><b> 9. Be sure the cuts on the joined halves match the reversed image of the layout (Again, ask me how I know)</b><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_175314.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><b>10. With the copper side still facing up, mask off the traces and through holes that are immediately adjacent to the mating edges' seam. You want to minimize the amount of glue getting on those traces and/or filling those holes</b><br/> <img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_175522.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><b>11. Thin, flexible super glue works well</b><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_175702.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><b>12. With the copper sides still facing up, (work on a piece of cardbord if available, like cutout from a shipping box) apply a single bead of thin super glue across the exposed seam. The smaller the opening in the super glue tube the better. Mine is a bit large, but the tape masking helped as shown in the next picture. </b><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_175842.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><b>13. As soon as you finish glueing the seam, momentarily press lightly on the outer board edges parallel with the seam, just quick enough to allow the super glue to penetrate further down into the seam. (This is where working on a piece of cardboard comes in handy) The tape should keep the mating edges snug once you let go.
<br/></b><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_175925.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><b>14. Do not disturb and let dry fully (see glue's label for times). This one set while I had dinner. </b><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_175913.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><b>15. Remove the tape from one half at a time, while holding that same half. Avoid adding unecessary pressure across the glued seam.</b><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_220147_HDR.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><b>17. Use a straight edge razor to scrape away and residual tape and/or any glue that may have seeped underneath the tape. Hold the razor blade perpendicular to the board and scape along the traces, not across the traces. Scrape each board seperately, right up to the seam.
<br/></b><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_221505_HDR.jpg" border="0"/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_221449.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><b>18 Carefully scrape the top side too using the same method and direction as the previous step.
<br/></b>
<br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_220308.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><b>19, Gently run the copper side over the fine file again, holding the same side that is being filed. Then clean both sides of the board with some 91% alcohol (Walmart).
<br/></b><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_222136.jpg" border="0"/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_222123.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><b>20. Should now be ready to go</b><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_222222.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_221859.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/>
<br/>The following isn't necessary, but looks nice and helps keep an eye on the seam.
<br/>
<br/><b>21. Cover the top side of the joined boards with tape, I used two pieces butted up at the seam. The helps me know where the seam is when populating the board</b><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_222522.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_222622.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><b>And trimmed to fit with an exacto knife</b><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_222811.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><br/><b>22 Working one board at a time, poke holes through the tape for components and wire connections, being sure not to place unecessary pressure across the glued seam. Think of working on the top half, then the bottom half paying careful attention when adding components across both halves. Be sure to get the spacing correct and again minimize any pressure across the seam. (The glue I used seems rock solid, but better safe then sorry). I'm using a spring loaded punch here, but not as a punch. Just simply using the pointy tip to poke through the tape.
<br/></b><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_224707_HDR.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_224246.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><b>When stuffing the components, if you find any of the holes plugged with glue, use a tiny drill bit to bore out the hole </b><br/><br/><br/><b>Here's how one of the actual boards I pieced together looks finished and installed. </b><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_124517.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><br/><b>Material and tools used</b><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n50556/20220723_223614.jpg" border="0"/><br/><br/><br/><br/>
<div class="signature weak-color">
1978 Gibson Les Paul Standard, Cherry Sunburst
</div>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50570Small cabinet. 10" speaker? Woods? Size? Tricks?2022-08-15T11:53:14Z2022-08-15T11:53:14Znonost
Hi guys! Maybe not the kinda of topic we use to post here. Here I go anyway:
<br/><br/>I want to build a tiny cabinet for a small watt guitar amplifier for bedroom usage. I thought that a 10" speaker would be great. I've read somewhere that open cabinets are not too tricky regarding their size. I'm don't know if that's correct, I hope so, since I want to build it pretty small.
<br/><br/>That said, do you have any ideas/knowledge about this kind of projects? Type of wood, cabinet dimension, etc.
<br/><br/>Here the post I found:
<br/><br/><a href="http://diy-fever.com/amps/1x10-guitar-cab/" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">http://diy-fever.com/amps/1x10-guitar-cab/</a><br/><br/>It's been a while since last posting...God.
<br/><br/>Cheers! ;)
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-7416Sansamp BDDI 'Lite'2013-12-23T14:49:48Z2013-12-23T14:49:48Zjohnk
I just drew up a vero layout for the sansamp BBDI 'lite' vero ('lite', standing for no XLR out). I haven't built it yet so it's not verified yet, but I think that I got everything correct. it's pretty huge at 35 x 20 but it has to go into a 1590BB anyway since it has 6 pots (and I may later add two switches for the scooped mids issue that they're known for).
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50546How to shape lfo2022-07-04T11:52:49Z2022-07-04T11:52:49Zedo1123
Hello guys, long time since my last post. I'm here asking for some help to understand how to get sine, square, sawtooth and reverse sawtooth out of a basic cmos lfo. My understanding so far is that putting a capacitor to ground can make the lfo a sine wave (I guess since I'm adding a low pass filter somehow) and I saw on an ugly face vero board where the output of the oscillator had 2 diodes put to ground to get a sawtooth and reverse sawtooth shape (once again I'm guessing it's some kind of "hard clipping"). My issue is that I don't fully understand if these methods are strictly related to how the lfo is generated (via opamp) or it's something "universal" applicable to every lfo (even one generated by a CD40106). Hope it was clear enough.
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50532Switch - Change Normally Open to Normally Closed2022-06-09T07:22:50Z2022-06-09T07:22:50ZSeaWitch
Hey all,
<br/><br/>I was hoping someone knows a way to convert a simple 2 pole "normally open" switch to "normally closed".
<br/><br/>Is there a component I can add to reverse the contact?
<br/><br/>Thanks!
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-38811First layout attempt2017-06-24T16:50:10Z2017-06-24T16:50:10Zoldfartrocker
Hi,This is my first post here, I have learned a lot from this site and have built a "Timmy" and a "Zendrive" both turned out great, thanks for all the info! Recently I built a clone of a Alembic tube preamp (f-b2) single channel and although it sounded great I couldn't get rid of the hum it made, so I decided to make a Fet version and fit it into a pedal, I had two MPF 102 fets left over from a previous project and modified my build using them, sounds good and no noise. So I drew up a layout of the pedal version and would appreciate any input from you knowledgeable members, Thanks for looking, Tim
<br/><br/><br/><img src="http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/file/n38811/Fet_Preamp.jpg" border="0" class="center"/>
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-3665BARGAINS!2013-05-08T10:33:39Z2013-05-08T10:33:39ZIvIark
I thought I'd start a thread for this, just for people to post good deals they see on components or gear that others may be interested in.
<br/><br/>I wanted some 5V regulators and came across this:
<br/><br/><a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290904669994" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290904669994</a><br/><br/>That should last me a while for not a lot of money <img class='smiley' src='/images/smiley/smiley_happy.gif' />
tag:guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com,2006:post-50500Himmelstrutz Fetto jfet substitute!2022-04-12T23:18:33Z2022-04-12T23:18:33ZBlackDeathsquad
Hello all,
<br/> Hope everyone is fine these days! Has anyone found a sub for sk170 jfet that is in the Fetto?
<br/><br/><br/>TIA…