Orange Squeezer Question

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Orange Squeezer Question

Chris60601
Hey everyone -

I'm puzzled with this pedal. I have built several of them. A GGG version, and 2 vero versions.
The one thing all 3 seem to have in common; the work really, really well if I use a battery.
What I mean is, they are quiet. But as soon as I put the wallwart to them, noisy as hell!

I mean, I tried swapping wallwarts from my standard ISPOT (I happen to like that one a good bit).
In fact, I use the ISPOT when I test all the pedals I build and the only pedals that produce this noise;
The Orange Squeezers - so this rules out the walwarts that I have or dirty power.

Perhaps I'm missing something but for the life of me, I can't figure out why these 3 builds all result in the same noise when not using a battery (mind you, that the GGG and the vero builds don't use some of the same parts - so I think that rules out making the same mistakes 3 times).

So in closing, I guess I'm asking if this is common for this pedal and if so, what have others done to stop this line noise..

Cheers
Chris
Yeah, 220, 221. Whatever it takes.
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Re: Orange Squeezer Question

Chris60601
Meh... Some folks on Madbean are saying that unless you are using a regulated PS, this is what happens.
Of course the 1spot is not and I really don't want to buy a PP2 either. So a battery it is!

Cheers
Chris
Yeah, 220, 221. Whatever it takes.
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Re: Orange Squeezer Question

Stinger25
Haven't tried it with the Orange Squeezer, but a huminator sometimes helps to keep the noise down, you can give it a try.

http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/HuminatorVeroLayout.gif
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Re: Orange Squeezer Question

Chris60601
Oh heck yeah! I'll give that a shot. The part count is low so yes!
Thank you sir!

Cheers
Chris
Yeah, 220, 221. Whatever it takes.
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Re: Orange Squeezer Question

induction
The problem with the stock Orange Squeezer schematic is that it assumes you will use a battery, so it has no hum rejection built-in (or polarity protection). Adding a filter cap to V+ rail doesn't help that much in this circuit, in my experience. This is because the power ripple is being fed to the non-inverting input of the op-amp via the 390k resistor. That op-amp provides about 25x voltage gain, so any ripple is amplified by a factor of 25. Even a small amount of ripple will be noticeable. What it needs is either low-noise biasing or a regulated adapter. I use both, but either one on its own will probably fix you up.

Using low-noise biasing means you can use an unregulated supply. Unfortunately, it also means that your existing layout will have to be modified. The biasing resistors are the 390k and 470k that meet at the non-inverting input. What you need is a filter cap to ground from that node. (100 uF will give you a corner frequency of f=1/(2*pi*390k*100u) = 0.004 Hz, which will provide 66 dB attenuation at 60 Hz, and even more attenuation at the ripple harmonics.) But if you put a big cap there, you will bleed your input signal to ground, treble especially. So you need to put a resistor (220k) between the non-inverting input/signal (from the 47nF cap) and the bias resistor node. (220k is chosen because 390k in parallel with 470k is 213k, so 220k will provide roughly the same impedance to ground as the stock circuit.)

So the recipe is:
1. Lift the 470k and 390k from the non-inverting input and join them back together so that they are not touching the non-inverting input of the op-amp. Make sure the 47nF is still attached to the non-inverting input.
2. Put a 100u from the junction of the 390k and 470k resistors to ground. (Cathode on ground.)
3. Put a 220k from the same junction to the non-inverting input of the op-amp.

Low-noise biasing is a very useful trick and you can get a lot of mileage out of it. Every circuit I build gets modded for low noise biasing if it isn't already included on every gain stage. Buffers are not gain stages, but I do it there, too, though that may be overkill. If you want to try it and can't figure out how to adjust your layout, post the layout and we'll help.

Alternately you can just buy or build a regulated adapter. Fortunately you can turn a crappy 12V wall wart into a regulated 9V adapter with a regulator and two caps. Look here for the datasheet schematic. Read further in that thread and also here if you want to get more ambitious and build a regulated multi-supply. You can build the regulator circuit into the pedal, but then you'll have to remember to use a 12V adapter, as it won't work with 9V anymore because the regulator needs an input voltage at least 3V higher than the output voltage.
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Re: Orange Squeezer Question

Neil mcNasty
In reply to this post by Chris60601
I had to get rid of my JHS Pump'nPeel because the noise was way too annoying.
It was driving me insane...

Now, I have not tried many compressors, but the first one I built myself was the Rothwell Love Squeeze and I absolutely love it and has not had any reason to try any other compressors so far (except I would like to try the Janglebox)
The Love Squeeze is the only compresser I've heard so far that does not add a lot of hiss and noise when engaged.
It is amazingly quiet and does a wonderfull job as a Orange Squeezer substitute.
Higly recomended build!

Cheers!
Neil
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Re: Orange Squeezer Question

Chris60601
Neil -

You convinced me! I went through my stock and I have all I need to build the Love Squeeze.
I'll do that tomorrow. If it works as well as it seems, I'll retire the OS I have and not worry about getting it to work - however, I am very interested in the work that both Rockett88 and Induction worked on.

That's a must!

Cheers
Chris
Yeah, 220, 221. Whatever it takes.
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Re: Orange Squeezer Question

Chris60601
In reply to this post by Neil mcNasty
Neil -

Thanks for the heads-up on the Rothwell pedal.
I love this thing! And loud too!!!

Cheers
Chris
Yeah, 220, 221. Whatever it takes.