Parts List and Parts questions

[makefast]

So I'm gearing up for some new builds (not being able to get my Sunface clone noise down made me stop wanting to do things - so I'm putting it aside for the time being) and in doing so am making parts list for the builds I'm planning (Tim, Klon, Russian Muff, Quacky, etc.).  Would it be worthwhile to post these lists up for future new builders like myself?  If so, what would be the best way to get that on the actual layout page?

Three parts questions:

1) So I've been eyeing a lot of the small box (1590A) builds and am looking at buying some of those tiny-sized pots to do a couple of my own.  Is there any drawback to using the small pots across the board?

2) What size enclosure for a Tim clone build?  I think he used a taller-than-normal box, but I was thinking of just using a 1590BB and mounting all the knobs on top - think it will work?  I'm planning on the full build with two footswitches and the loop.

3) Is the ICL7660SPCA (I don't have and would need to order) in the Klon build he same as an ICL7660CPAZ (that I have in stock)?  I tried to look at the info sheets on them both, but couldn't really make much sense of them to determine if they are the same or suitable as subs for one another.

[Travis]

1) only downside IMO is that they don't come with solder lugs

2) 1590BB.

3) the one you have will result in a high pitched whine. The important thing is to have an "S" right after 7660. The ones I usually get are ICL7660SCPAZ

[Muadzin]

Travis wrote

1) only downside IMO is that they don't come with solder lugs

Solder lugs are overrated. They're easier to solder alright, but I've had a metric f***ton of effects malfunction because some wire was still lose inside them. Or became lose over time. With pcb pin pots I never have that problem. And soldering wires to them is not that hard. Apply some solder to the pins, some solder to the exposed wire, bring them together, apply heat, Bob's your uncle.

[Chris60601]

Muadzin is correct.
I prefer running the wire to the holes closest to the pot it self leaving the pins/lugs untouched.

[Silver Blues]

Yeah I don't use the solder lug pots much either. I like to make good mechanical connections to things before I solder so I usually loop the wire around the pin then solder it in place, works A+.

[Chris60601]

Hmm, looping the wire trough the lug then soldering to the holes behind the lugs? I never thought of doing that. That's kind of what JohnK does with his circuit boards.
Wow! What a way to secure the leads! I'll need to try that out.

[Silver Blues]

Oh that's not quite what I meant  I mean you could do that. What I was talking about is just making like a little eyelet with the wire end (tinned or not, usually tinned), sliding it over the pin and closing it on the pin. Prevents the wire from moving while soldering which is the cause of a lot of inconspicuous bad joints.

[rocket88]

not to hijack the thread or anything, but back to your sunface clone and the noise. id you make a Ge or Si one? if you did the Ge, i'm assuming it was PNP , so did you happen to use the ICL7660CPAZ to make an inverter for it? if you did i'll bet that's causing the noise. as travis mentioned, you only want to use 7660s, it MUST have the "s" after the 7660 or it will make noise like a son of a bitch.

1590a builds can be a bitch, cause you have nearly 0 space to put everything, and you have to get everything in the right place or it won't sit right and the board can ground out on the enclosure.

personally, i might suggest doing anything less complicated build then a klon or quacky right now due to the problems with the sunface. remember the more parts and bigger the layout the more likely you can encounter problems. a muff, while complicated and on the larger side i think is a great choice. even though it's got a lot of parts, it's relatively easy to debug if it doesn't. plus, speaking from experience it's a circuit that i think really helps you understand effects circuits and how they work.

[Beaker]

+1 on Siverblues method.

I strip and tin my wire ends, bend to form a loop, then slide the loop down over the pot lug pin and solder in place. I have tried several different methods in the past, including the vero wafer method, but the lopp method works best for me.

I have bought ICL7660 without the "S" suffix and had problems, before realising my mistake. Replacing them with "S" versions solved it. Fortunately I only odered a few, so no big deal.
So yes, as others have already pointed out, you need the "S" versions.

Big builds are great for gaining confidence, but are a total pig to de-bug if you make a mistake.
If you do decide to jump straight into a Klon, take things really - and I mean really slow and careful, and double and triple check everything as you go along.

Like Zach, I would build a couple of Big Muff or similar sized pedals first, if I was in your shoes.

I've never even tried a 1590A build though - just seems like masochism to me!

[makefast]

Thanks Rocket - see the sunface thread here.  I never got enough of the noise out to make it usable - I'm planning on pulling it out of the box to see if I can't troubleshoot it better with a bit more space to see everything.  It worked on the breadboard, worked when I vero'd, but when I boxed it up I introduced a bunch of interference-type noise to the circuit.

In the meantime, though, I'm going to try another build.  My list is to try a Dwarfcraft Shiva, then a Russian Muff, and then go from there.  The Quacky is to build something that isn't a dirt pedal, while the Tim/Klon build is an eventually - but might as well order the parts for it!

I already did a one-knobber fuzz in a 1590A and it was really tight even with only the one pot.  I'm not planning on doing another 1590A build for awhile, more of a curiosity on my end.

[rocket88]

Ah. Forgot about that thread. If if worked before boxing the trouble is there. My guess now would be something either came loose, grounded on the enclosure, or miss wired. I'll look over the thread again and see if I can think of anything.

I definitely hear you on building a non-dirt effect. The problem that I found with some of them is they're finkle about certain parts, especially builds with LFOs. I think you've got a good head on your shoulders about where you want to go, and increasing complexity. After see you say the sunface nearly made you want to stop, I wouldn't want to hear that happen due to a big build.

Btw, beaker and silver that loop idea for non-solder lug pots is great. Can't believe I didn't know about it before. I'll have to start using that.

[Hozy31]

Also +1 on Silver Blues method. I have always used that method, but it obviously helps to have one of those helping hands with croc clips. I really couldn't live without mine.