I'm not sure what the electronic theory behind the matching is, but the choppy breakup is most likely caused by an hFE mismatch - I've heard this complaint from builders of the gate. Try to get them as close as you possibly can.
I would say as long as you use the same meter for both transistors you should be fine - if there'll be an error, it will be the same across both, i.e. the ratio of the two hFEs will be the same.
Also, how do you like the circuit? I have a buddy that's been looking to have me build him a noise gate and I've been scouring for the best possible option.
Through all the worry and pain we move on