haha, same same, here, but i would add (somewhere around your item n°4)
-spend 3 hours designing drill layout and measuring everything
-commit to drill
-"dry fit" everything: everything ok, awesome!
-paint/finish the enclosure
-all the holes have magically moved, nothing fits, now
Looks like this one may have slipped through the cracks
I built up this circuit up and it works but there are a couple things that need to be changed. I think tone 1 and 3 are reversed, and that 100n at the new tone 1 should be 10n
I just have the wires going to trimmers and jacks on my breadboard for testing, so I'm getting some weird noises from that, but overall it sounds really badass. This layout isn't as neat as your full size layout but it's a lot more 1590b friendly, and the fact that it can fit in a 1590A makes it unbeatable. Really not a bad layout to build at all, I'd prefer it over your normal one because this will be way easier to squeeze in a 1590b with a battery and of course the skreddy mids switch :D
My board needs some tweaking before I box it. I just threw some BC108s and a 2n3904 in there since that's what I had laying around. I'm getting a real face melting fuzz out of this but not as refined as the skreddy
I swapped in some BC337 and that made it sound a lot better. Hfe is 324 in all 4. I figured that gain range would be approximate to what a usable 2N5133 might look like. That's just a guess but it sounds pretty sweet now anyway :)
Now I want to build the MKIII version with carbon comps and ceramic discs like Marc at Skreddy suggests
I just found this layout a few days ago. Built it with 2N5089s and got it into a 1590A fairly easily. I'd love to be able to do a P19 in a 1590A as well. Thanks for the layout.
If you reread the thread from the start you will understand what's going on. Both layouts that Mark posted have errors.
The one in the first post has an error on the pull down resistor and tone 1 and 3 are reversed. It will still work but isn't the same as the original schem
The second one has the errors that I mentioned above, which are the 100n cap at tone 3, and reversed connections to tone 3 and tone 1
Out of curiosity - what are the ramifications of using an 1/8th-watt resistor (which is half-sized?).
I truly don't know, but I do know that we have settled on 1/4-watt. But it seems like there should be times when a different sized resistor would fill the bill just fine. I also know I have burned out a few 1/4-watt resistors when they are inline with +9v as the first component. I replaced them with 1/2-watt and it helps.
I learned building from this site and never even visited FSB until 6 months ago because I was happy just building circuits from here. But since Alex started referencing FSB in his notes I now see many of you started posting there a decade ago.
So - this site was (apparently) started with a lot of things already decided as standard over there and long ago that are not really discussed here often; for example; 24-gauge wire, 1/4-watt 1% resistors, etc.
And Frank - you were the one who mentioned using masking tape to hold components in place when soldering. That is the ticket for standing resistors for me.
From the info I read on here and on Madbean's project page for the Rabbit Hole, 1/8 watt should be OK for 9v. I base that only on what I read and that my pedal seems OK.
I grabbed a bag of 1/8w resistors a while ago which had every value known to man. I still use them here and there when i dont have a 1/4watt available and have never had an issue.
Yeah 1/8 watt will be fine for this. The only resistor I would have a concern about is if there was one in series with the supply, but this doesn't have one anyway and they'll be fine for everything else.
Most SMD effects used 1/10W resistors and there are plenty that use 1/16W
I've been using 1/8w since day dot. 9v, 18v and bipolar 36v. Never had a problem. They're great for spanning 2 rows without standing up too much and the leads are thin enough to share holes when making really compact layouts.