Wiring to turn off octave from Roger Mayer Octavia

[THE-ElBaRtO]

Hey guys I need some help,

I just built the Roger Mayer Octavia and it works great. I did some research and found out it was possible to use a switch to get rid of the octave up feature. Here is the layout followed by the instructions:

https://s16.postimg.org/m29ub7ml1/mayeroctaviaschem.gif
"Get a 3-position SPDT on-off-on toggle.  The common goes to the junction of the lower diode and 100k.  One of the outside lugs goes to the junction of the upper diode, 2M2, and 22uf.  The other outside lug goes to the lifted end of the lower diode that would normaly be connected to the 100k."

I understand these instructions except for one thing. For me the "common lug" and the "other outside lug" mentioned here are wired to the same spot on the board even though it should be two different things... What am I missing here?

[Zanius]

What would the 3rd position of the switch do though? Not really know, but I suppose he means you should snip that connection from bottom diode to the 100K, like this.

[Travis]

The common lug is the one in the middle.

If your switch is like this

1
2
3

We could call 1 an outer lug, 2 is common, and 3 can be the other outer lug

THE-ElBaRtO wrote

Hey guys I need some help,

I just built the Roger Mayer Octavia and it works great. I did some research and found out it was possible to use a switch to get rid of the octave up feature. Here is the layout followed by the instructions:

https://s16.postimg.org/m29ub7ml1/mayeroctaviaschem.gif
"Get a 3-position SPDT on-off-on toggle.  The common goes to the junction of the lower diode and 100k.  One of the outside lugs goes to the junction of the upper diode, 2M2, and 22uf.  The other outside lug goes to the lifted end of the lower diode that would normaly be connected to the 100k."

I understand these instructions except for one thing. For me the "common lug" and the "other outside lug" mentioned here are wired to the same spot on the board even though it should be two different things... What am I missing here?

[THE-ElBaRtO]

That makes more sense now but there is still the problem of actually doing it. Here's the part of the vero we're interested in:



Following the labels you used Zanius, is this what I'm supposed to do?

[Addy Bart]

Edit: Actually, I'm not sure why a 3 position toggle is needed... Always thought you could remove the octave effect by lifting one of the diodes with a SPST.

Perhaps you could add a cut above the two cuts to the left of D1, and then solder the cathode of D2 one row above. That way D1 is always connected to the 100k/10n cap.

Forget about wire 1, keep wire 3 where it is on your picture, and wire 2 goes one row above to where you just put the cathode of D2.

[THE-ElBaRtO]

This is the explanation that went with the instructions:
"The middle position leaves the lower diode disconnected, eliminating the octaving.  One of the side positions connects the diode to restore octaving, and the other side position disconnects  the lower diode but also bridges the upper diode to effectively remove its impact on the circuit, giving a less "reedy" distortion."

But hey my prime goal here was to get rid of the octave so I'll stick to that and that only.

So if I understood correctly it would look like this:

[Addy Bart]

Right, I see. That's interesting with the 'reedy' tone.
Yes, that vero looks right to me. Let us know how it goes!

[THE-ElBaRtO]

I finally had the chance to put the switch in my pedal and I didn't get any new effect. When the switch connects 2 and 3 I have the normal Octavia effect (which is normal) but any other two positions of the switch gives me no effect at all (I just end up with the default sound from my guitar/amp as if the pedal was bypassed)

Here are some photos of the pedal, hope you guys find out what the problem is!
(Note that 3 is the common lug)







PS: I am stubborn and put the wire 1 anyway, maybe that's why it's not working...

[THE-ElBaRtO]

I disconnected wire 1 but no changes, can anyone help me please?

[nocentelli]

The lug numbering is wrong in the 1st schematic posted with the switch lugs labelled in red: Swap 2 and 3 around (i.e. the 100k/10n node becomes the common) and it will do exactly as described - disconnect the octave in the middle, engage octave when 3 is connected to common, and short the collector diode when 1 is connected to common to give a slightly fuller fuzz/no octave sound.

[squirrels]

I know this is an old thread but how (if at all) can this be implemented to the existing layout? Sounds interesting.