adding a mid-scoop switch (skreddy pink flesh style) to a regular muff

[tabbycat]

hey all,

have knocked up one of these recently as a gateway hit into the wondrous world of muffage.
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2014/11/moen-fuzz-moo.html

basically i want to start off with a pretty basic one that i like (preferred this to the regular ny muff perhaps because it is already partially un-midscooped) and then modify it to optimum sweetness by degrees, so i get some understanding of what i'm doing to effect the progressive changes.

obviously i could dive right in to something already modded to the extreme, but then i'd just be building-by-numbers again and not really appreciating what changes are coming from where. so this is a borderline academic build, partly to have nice muff (every home should have one) and partly to learn something useful. want to steepen my learning curve for a bit.

comparing the moo to the skreddy pink flesh mutant muff
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/skreddy-pink-flesh.html
the scoop switch on the skreddy seems to swap the 4n7 off the collector of q3 (on both moo and skreddy) for a 10n on the skreddy. if i translate that principle to the moo, add a switch that lets me switch between 4n7 and 10n, will i get the mids in full? or is there more to it than that, and if so what?

or should i forget the switch altogether and go with the amz presence control?

basically i like the gritty stock moo sound, a solid foundation (skreddy sounds too smooth and refined for me), but liked the kick that the switch on the skreddy pink muff gave the tone in the demos i've seen (particularly good sounding one by a yt poster called golden monkey colour, who has been a member here at some point too i think).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NEJMFnqcrk

so if anyone out there has tried this kind of thing i'd be interested to hear what you did and what you achieved?

thanks in advance for your thoughts, opinions and ideas.

[Muadzin]

I add this switch to all my Muffs, including the ones I build using PCB's. I actually prefer it over a mids knob, as that involves changing the entire tone stack. It should be mandatory on all Muffs in my opinion, as just flicking from the stock scooped position to the flat position is usually enough to be suddenly heard again in the mix. I never use the boost position. And its so easy to do so. Connect the connector of Q3 to a center lug of a DPDT switch, and lug 3 of the tone pot to the other center lug.

I usually use 4n7 and 10n for the flat and boost values, but then again almost every Muff I've build uses 3n9 as part of the tone stack. In the P19 Skreddy uses only a 6n8 on a on/on DPDT switch, but he also uses 6n8 as part of the P19 tone stack. Since the Fuzz Moo uses 4n7 as part of its tone stack, you would probably need a 3n9 cap to get the flat mids value. But then again, the Fuzz Moo also has that huge 100K resistor as part of its tone stack. So maybe you could get away with even smaller values for both the flat and boost positions? Why not experiment?

[tabbycat]

Muadzin wrote

I add this switch to all my Muffs, including the ones I build using PCB's. I actually prefer it over a mids knob, as that involves changing the entire tone stack. It should be mandatory on all Muffs in my opinion, as just flicking from the stock scooped position to the flat position is usually enough to be suddenly heard again in the mix. I never use the boost position. And its so easy to do so. Connect the connector of Q3 to a center lug of a DPDT switch, and lug 3 of the tone pot to the other center lug.

I usually use 4n7 and 10n for the flat and boost values, but then again almost every Muff I've build uses 3n9 as part of the tone stack. In the P19 Skreddy uses only a 6n8 on a on/on DPDT switch, but he also uses 6n8 as part of the P19 tone stack. Since the Fuzz Moo uses 4n7 as part of its tone stack, you would probably need a 3n9 cap to get the flat mids value. But then again, the Fuzz Moo also has that huge 100K resistor as part of its tone stack. So maybe you could get away with even smaller values for both the flat and boost positions? Why not experiment?

@muadzin
thanks for the advice and explanation muadzin, am between build-by-numbers and actually knowing what i'm doing so your explanation was pitched just right.
i will take the 4n7 and 10n as starting points and work downwards in both values until i strike tone gold.
am also thinking about borrowing the shift pot set up from the hoof, which appears (to my understanding) to be a species of the amz presence 'body' control. will compare and contrast and report back.

are there any other simple but effective muff tricks you can suggest to try? am new to the species.

[Muadzin]

Probably the biggest number of Big Muff mods and tricks can be found here:

http://rkerkhof.ruhosting.nl/Taas/Mods/Big%20Muff.htm