enclosure sizes for noobies

[fuzznaught]

Hello to all...just dove in...serial lurker here with my first post in my first forum, ever. Ill start by thanking IvIark, Miro, and others for everything theyve done here. For the countless layouts and all the ruined marriages, haha, j/k. But seriously, thanks guys, this is clearly a very fun and addictive hobby.... couple of dipstick questions right out the gate: is there any kind of formula using the vero rows or hole count for figuring out what size enclosures (ie 1590b, 125b, etc.) to order for the layouts? I dont quite understand the quest for the smallest/tightest layouts possible by any means necessary. I get that pedalboard real estate is valuable, but sometimes it seems it would be easier to just get a bigger pedalboard. haha. see, I said Im new. I built the 'bazz fuss' on breadboard, but Im starting my 1st real build (rockett pedals 'animal') that I plan to box up. Of course I have a wish-list of builds after the animal, and wanted to order enclosures for these. How do I figure out what size to order? And if Im not as concerned with the tightest fit possible (yet), could I put the layouts in bigger enclosures to have easier builds? The offboard wiring seems so much harder when attempting in the confined space that more experienced builders can pull off easily. Also, please tell me if there is a better 'plexi' type pedal for a novice build. Im trying to work my way up to building the 'box-of-rock' or 'dls', but thought the animal would be easier first. Thanks!!!

[Vince]

I find the vast majority of layouts fit nicely in a 1590b but when they start hitting around 20 holes wide, you may be more comfortable using 125b's. Maybe build up the vero and lay all the parts in the enclosure before you drill it so as to not waste an enclosure. I would buy a couple of each size as you're guaranteed to use them at some stage.

[fuzznaught]

Hi Vince, thanks for the advice man. I went ahead and did exactly what you said. I was being cheap and trying to avoid having to order an enclosure surplus, but figured the shipping fees would kill me in the long run anyways. I saw that most ppl use that 1590 you mentioned, but not as many use the 125, is the only reason because its a lil bigger? I ordered both. There's quite a few builds I'm shying away from because they look like "saving a row" is more important than the ease of build, and possibly the sound quality in some cases. I'm sure it's because I'm sooo green at this I don't quite understand how a half inch of space, or what the guts look like, is so much more important than anything else whatsoever. (But Im sure Ill see this post in a year from now and be like "what a donkey I was" haha). So besides the really simple fuzz's, do you know of any layouts that are a bit "roomier" to get my feet wet with? that might be a lil easier to do the offboard wiring/etc? Ive almost finished the rockett animal (maybe, I havent tested it yet), but Im waiting on a couple pots, and an enclosure of course :)

[Vince]

No worries, I think it probably is because it's a little bigger but I personally really like the 125's. They're really solid and look really 'boutiquey'. I think it's down to personal preference too as you see some people putting Fuzz Faces in huge boxes when they can easily fit into those little mini enclosures.

Don't worry about it, I've asked some real corkers when I started and no doubt there will be a few more to come.

I would recommend the DAM Meathead. It's small, just one knob but not just because of that, it is one of the best fuzzes EVER.. My personally best and a lot of people here will highly recommend it. I'd make the 'dark' version though if you decide to. It's much fatter and ear pleasing. Replace the 10nf cap with a 47nf and the 22nf cap with a 100nf and that's the dark version.

[JaviCAP]

Just a little correction to my friend Vince: The input cap of a Meathead Dark is 470nf, not 47 :).

About the main topic: My first build ever was a Fuzz Face .... in a 1590BB, and I swear it was really difficult for me to fit it inside  succh a huge enclosure!

Don't worry about size on your first builds. You'll soon begin to develop your building skills, and your pedals will become nicer and tighter and will get 1590B a a standard. Maybe even 1590A :P

BR

[Vince]

There were two versions of the dark, Javi. He ditched the 470nf cap as he said it was too muddy on neck buckers at high volumes  and stuck with the 47nf . What was the dark version back then is now the standard Meathead. (m-13)

I emailed him a while ago as I have bought an original and wanted to know the history ;o)

[fuzznaught]

thanks guys, Im definately gonna do that meathead. I tried to post a question in the comments section but it didnt show up, maybe you guys know: on the rockett animal, there are only two connections shown in the layout for the spdt switch ("snarl"), but my switch has 3 poles. Is it just like the pot connections where if it's not shown in a layout, then its not used? and if so, does it matter which poles on the switch I connect wires "snarl 1" and "snarl 2" to? I appreciate the help very much, there is so much stuff in the layouts that Im sure is obvious if you know how to build already. I musta stared at all these layouts for a year just wishing I knew how to put jacks on so I could start to build some.haha. Finally somehow stumbled upon the offboard page. Anyways, Im gonna get to that meathead for sure if/when I can get the animal to work. thanks sooo much you guys!

[Vince]

Just use two poles next to each other. Top two or bottom two, it doesn't matter and leave the last one blank

[fuzznaught]

sweet...thanks vince! also, I took my knife and scraped out the grooves in between some of the iffy solder joints on the copper strips (a few were questionable bridges to say the least)...is that bad, or something I want to avoid doing? I didnt scratch the copper, but I did go sorta deep on a couple.

[adstrum]

You don't need to be too gentle when it comes to cleaning up the gap between vero strips. Something I learnt from this forum is that ripping a hacksaw down the gaps can help clear-up any doubt about solder bridges between strips. I have had a couple of builds where that technique sorted out previous failures.

[fuzznaught]

thnks adstrum, just making sure. there was a couple tracks that i scraped so much, i swear its almost like its just the caps&jumpers holding em together anymore, haha. My soldering has improved lots so I shouldnt have to do it so much anymore, hopefully. now I just need to figure out a way to hold the board so i dont fold all the electros over while scraping :p

[Beaker]

I use one of these to clear the tracks on my builds. they are also great for cutting veroboard to the required size, as well as countless other uses.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/X-ACTO-EXTRA-FINE-RAZOR-SAW-SET-X75350-/281151628802?pt=UK_Crafts_DrawingSupplies_EH&hash=item4175f16602

I just hold the finished board carefully in my lap between my fingers, and run the blade along the track. No problems with bending or snapping off components.