looking tips and advice for klon build

[erynforrester]

Hi folks,

I'm going to build a couple of klons. They will only be 4-5th build so I'm looking for some tips or advice regarding components and best order of populating the board, routing wires etc.

I was going to use pins/sockets for the diodes so I can swap out different ones.

Can anyone recommend a good source of diodes?
Has anyone tried both germanium and silicon for D1 and D2? Maybe a switch to switch between both would be worth it.
Do I have to measure anything with the diodes? Do they need to be matched?

Have I over-complicated this?

Any input is welcome, no matter how basic.
 I'm a complete beginner with pedals (built a few amps successfully and have electrical/mechanical background).

Thanks in advance guys
Eryn

[IvIark]

Try 1N60 or Russian D9E diodes, in his recent reverse Keith from BYOC said that both worked very well and the D9E sounded identical in his comparison with the real silver Klon.  

No you don't have to match anything, one diode clips one half of the waveform, the other clips the other half, and they don't have to clip symmetrically.  I would just suggest trying all the diodes you have and seeing which you like best.  It is often the case where I would prefer a silicon diode of some sort where germanium was used in the original, and that may be the case for you too.

I'm not the biggest fan of the Klon as an overdrive and so it makes sense for me to try to alter the drive character into something that I prefer rather than making sure it's identical to an original.  I quite liked the 1N4001 in there, and try schottky's and LEDs too.  Having LEDs switchable on a toggle may be a good choice because it gives you an option for a more aggressive distortion.

[AC_FX]

Another couple of diode suggestions to try - Small Bear sells a no-name NOS germanium that I've used in a couple of Klons.  A lot of them seem to come in right around the recommended .35V spec and they sound great.  Small Bear's sku is 2209.  I also have some 1N69's from them, sku 2209E, voltage drop looks like it's in the ballpark but I haven't tried them yet.

I got curious about the D9E suggestion when I saw lvlark's new layout, but some days I just don't feel like ordering parts from Romania, it's a long way from Chicago. . .

[Frank_NH]

Pedalhackerelectronics.com has the Russian D9 series diodes including the D9E.  I just ordered some - we'll see...here's the link:

D9 Diodes

For my upcoming Klon build, I plan to socket the diodes and the ICs so I can experiment with different options.

[AC_FX]

Thanks for the tip, Frank_NH

[erynforrester]

excellent, thankyou gentlemen

[Frank_NH]

Hello all,

An update.  Got my ten D9E diodes from Pedalhackerelectronics.com (GREAT service BTW - highly recommended).  They all measure from 0.35 to 0.39 in forward voltage according to my multimeter's diode testing function.  Two of them will end up in my Klon to provide their magic overdrive mojo

[rocket88]

i wish i noticed this post before, i could have sent you some frank, i ordered some awhile ago and had to purchase a lot of 200 of them (due to price). i also got a bunch of the other D9 series diodes. i tried them all out, and feel like these really don't want to breakup, and are fairly balanced tonally. i think the D9V's would be a better choice, cause they sound similar to the D9E but will breakup when you dig into them, but are a little less warm and a little edgier, if that makes any sense.

[Frank_NH]

Thanks rocket88 - hey, no worries.  I'll try the D9Es but if they don't work out I'll just substitute some more ordinary diodes.  To be honest, there are a lot of other aspects of the circuit that may make a tonal difference outside of the diodes.  I also have to admit that the diodes were an impulse purchase, but dirt cheap compared to other hobbies (like guitar building - heck I've paid, in total, hundreds of dollars for various tonewoods I purchased over the years  - I could buy a lot of diodes for that money!).

[Frank_NH]

By the way - I never would have thought, when I started building effects pedals, that there was as much MOJO tied up in specific components as in the acoustic guitar building community!  Special diodes = brazillian rosewood bridge, vintage JRC 4558 = aged european spruce top, vintage transistors = fossil ivory nut/saddle material...  

[rocket88]

dude i totally hear you on that one. i've built a few basses, and i can't agree with you more. some people can hear the difference in tonewoods, i can, but i know others can't. hell even the metal some bridges are made off. my last 2 builds one was for me the other for my little brother, both are fender jazz style basses, both are swamp ash, both rosewood fretboard, both hipshot aluminum tuners, mine has a brass bridge, his has an aluminum bridge and there is a massive difference in tone and attack. i tried mine against my genuine fender jazz the same setup and bridge, just alder body, and the alder body is warmer, while the swamp ash is more in your face. i've even noticed that the size of the body seems to make a difference to my ears too when it comes to the resonance.

i now have one i'm working on that has a solid walnut body, maple neck with pau ferro fretboard, that i can't wait to finish and play, cause it should have a super warm, deep tone from the body, and the fretboard should help bring a lot of definition and punch, cause its hardness is between rosewood and ebony.