1776 Multiplex with charge/discharge trimmers

[trom72]

I finally receive my H11F1. So fun,  I could set the speed stomp easily. I love how it works, I'm less fan in feedback mod. I receive some white one so I change resistor value to 1M2 as you suggested.

I read that you have problems with yours. I take a bit of them in case of other builds of that's great pedal. If you want I can send you one. It could be a fun way to thank you for your job on that layout as you are too far for I pay you a beer.

Thanks again I take a lot of fun with that pedal.

[MAO]

Very cool! And very nice of you.

Once I swapped in the 1M2 for the 2M2, I was able to dial in the black ones with the trimmers. But I could actually use a white H11F1 just for comparison.  

This batch of black H11F1 definitely respond slower the the White one I had.

Let me know if end up with extras, I would buy 1 from you.

Mike  

[trom72]

I have one extra. Send me a message with your postal adress and I will send it.

Once again thank you for this amazing layout.

[MAO]

Trom72, I received the white H11F1, thanks again, very kind of you.
 
All the way from France, very cool!

How did you make out with the LDR and resistor value for the modulation?

[cjonesplay]

FINALLY got done with this project and I'm exceptionally pleased with the results:


I don't think I need to show the guts, you get the point:)

The reason it took so long is I kept blowing up the LED in the mod circuit (it shorted out on the box at least 4x - be careful!!). I never could get an LED/LDR combo that worked as well as the VTL5C3 that I originally had (which cost $6 and blew up like the rest of them), but at least it works and I'm going to buy more vactrols and switch it out eventually.

I implemented a switch that selects between the ramp feature and modulation on Delay 2 when the left switch is depressed (per MAO's diagram). The on/off of the mod causes a tweaked sound and affects the delay time. At first I was mad about this, until I kept pressing it over and over again and it sounds insane. When combined with the feedback max switch I added (per Travis's advise) it does things that other delay pedals won't do

I also implemented MAO's idea of using transparency for the artwork. I've been messing with this method until I build up the courage to start using labels/lacquer, as it's very easy to switch these out when you're not satisfied with the results. It's been great practice so far, as I'm new to the design element of pedals-making.

Here's the issues I faced with this method:  
1. You have to avoid all of the edges of the box by a wide margin, or else the transparency will catch on things. It's fine for my hobby stuff, but when i show it to other people they immediately recognize this as a flaw.

2. You have to be really careful when you secure the nuts for all of the pots/switches/stomp because it can twist and warp the transparency pretty easily.

MAO, I owe you a huge debt for all of the great knowledge that you've passed on. This has hands-down been my favorite build of all time because the pedal looks and sounds so great. I couldn't have done it without your help! I bought a few more H11F1's and I'm already getting some people asking me to build these for them, so this is just the first of what I hope to be many more of this great design. You rock!!

[trom72]

Sorry for the late answer, I didn't came back on the forum from a while. Happy that you received it and I hope you enjoy it.
I finally bought a vactrol so I stop tweaking led/Ldr. I was close (now that I'm able to compare with vactrol)  with red led and Ldr with 5m dark and 180k for resistor. I'm so happy with that delay that I wanted to have the more perfect I was able to.

@cjonesplay beautiful build!!

[yiyorebel]

Hi MAO pedals, first I want to congratulate you for the contributions, it's a great forum.
I need to help me a bit, I built this pedal, it sounds incredible, the only problem I have is with the wiring of the switch led momentary, so I do not work the detune, if you can tell me how to do wiring I would thank you very much . regards
Sorry for the english

[MAO]

Thank you yiyorebel,

I hope this helps...

The speed switch is a SPST momentary normally off like this.  

If your switch has 3 lugs like this, measure continuity from the center lug to either side lug, you are looking for the 2 that do not have continuity. Connect those 2 lugs to the pcb.

If you have already connected the switch properly, and the detune doesn't seem to be working, be sure you have the top trimmer (2k) set as shown in this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-ePB7E_uOs 

Let me know how it goes.  

[yiyorebel]

Hello MAO pedals, thank you very much for your quick response, what you explained to me I am clear, maybe not explain me well. That is why I attach an image.
The cathode of the LED, where do I connect it? The curious thing is that, for example, I close the cathode of the led to any pin of the switch and I touch it with my finger, the led next to the 2n3904 is seen as it is loaded and if I take out my finger the LED is discharged.
The trimmer of 2k I have it regulated in 0.5v. In the image you can see that replace the trimmers of 100k and 1m by resistors of 33k for 100k and 1m for 1m, in addition the resistance of 2.2m change it by 1m. Everything else works amazing is just the speed switch which does not work for me.
Thank you very much for your help and good vibes.
regards

[MAO]

I hope I understand better this time.

LED cathode:
The green LED you have drawn in is the bypass LED, the cathode goes to your bypass switch like this

Detune troubleshoot:

Do you hear the detune when you rotate the Delay 2 knob back and forth?

If no, stop here and reply.  

If yes, then check this next.

The red LED (D2) should be faintly lit, when you close and hold down the speed switch the red LED should get brighter. After a few seconds it should be very bright. Let go of the speed switch and the red LED should go faint again.

If that is working correctly, then be sure Delay 2 is active and set for a long delay time. The close the Speed speed witch until the LED is very bright, play a chord and let go of the Speed switch. Do you hear any detune?

Also, what color is your H11F1? And where did you purchase it?

[yiyorebel]

Hi MAO pedals, thank you very much for your help and patience, and solve the problem, I had badly wired the bypass. I had a confusion with the led, I thought it was to see when the detune was activated, the bypass had it differently so that the delay function worked but I did not detune it. Once again, thank you very much.
My H11F1 is black, I just want to be able to ask you one last question, with higher values ​​is the faster the load / decharge ?, or is it slower ?.
Best regards

[MAO]

Please, keep the questions coming, that's the best part of this forum!

I believe the higher the resistors, the slower the charge and discharge.  

I still have mine, I can take some readings if needed.

Let me know.

[BetterOffShred]

Anyone got the build doc still? Or a link ?

[BetterOffShred]

Nvm, it's still on 1776 website

[gigimarga]

Thank you very much for this fabulous layout, MAO! It's one of the best delays that I know.

I've built it with modulation board and it works from the first try, less the Speed SW. I obtained 0.45-0.5V as in the calibration video, but the LED (D2) is not lighting up at all. I've read all the post from here and I tried all the mods that you suggested, but with no luck. I will try to buy more H11F1s (I have only 2 whites), but there are expensive here. Even I put a LED instead of H11F1 pins 1 and 2, but no luck at all.

Can anyone post the voltages of 2N3904 and H11F1? Maybe it will help me.