Adding a DC Jack - Ripple Filtering and Reverse Polarity Protection

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Adding a DC Jack - Ripple Filtering and Reverse Polarity Protection

badoogie
I want to build a couple of effects that originally could only be powered with a battery (Green Ringer and Orange Squeezer).  I want to build these with jacks so that they can be powered with an adapter, and I'd like to include some basic filtering and reverse polarity protection.  What are the best ways to do this?  From looking at other pedal schematics I see a lot use one or more capacitors from 9V to ground to filter the supply and a diode 'backwards' from 9V to ground to protect against reverse polarity, but the component values differ from one pedal to another.  What determines the values they use?  Thanks!
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Re: Adding a DC Jack - Ripple Filtering and Reverse Polarity Protection

Beaker
A question for in return - do you intend to house these two circuits in one box, or will they be seperate pedals?

If you are doing two in one box, you only need one cap/diode combo, that you can solder directly to the power socket lug - it will do for both circuits.

If you look at the layouts on this site, many already have the reverse polarity diode on the board, but not the two circuits you mention.

Almost every circuit has power filtering already.
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Re: Adding a DC Jack - Ripple Filtering and Reverse Polarity Protection

Silver Blues
In reply to this post by badoogie
First of all, I don't recommend using the reverse-biased parallel polarity protection diode. If ever this manner of failsafe needs to be used, this diode will protect the circuit by destroying itself, which can cause more harm than good. Rather use a forward-biased series diode, which will accomplish the same thing without risk of explosion (current simply won't flow if you connect power backwards). Generally what is used here is a 1N4001 or 1N5817, but the 5817 is generally preferable because it is a Schottky diode thus has a lower forward voltage drop than the 4001 (you trim less voltage off your supply after it passes this diode). Adequate filtering usually comes in the form of a 47-100uF capacitor from the power rail to ground.

Sometimes a small (47-100Ω) series resistor is needed, and sometimes an additional small (usually 100nF) capacitor is connected in parallel with the larger filter cap for better high-frequency filtering.
Through all the worry and pain we move on
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Re: Adding a DC Jack - Ripple Filtering and Reverse Polarity Protection

induction
The Orange Squeezer also needs filtering on the Vref node or else it hums like crazy when you use it with an unregulated adapter.
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Re: Adding a DC Jack - Ripple Filtering and Reverse Polarity Protection

badoogie
Thanks for the replies guys.  I'm building these in separate enclosures, so each will need its own protection/filtering.

When choosing caps for the filtering is it best to breadboard and try a couple of values?

induction, would Vref be pin 3?  What sort of value cap would be required?
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Re: Adding a DC Jack - Ripple Filtering and Reverse Polarity Protection

Frank_NH
Here's something I nabbed from the Beavis site before it went down.  Looks like you may want to use option #5 which provides filtered Vcc and Vcc/2.  Hope this helps.

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Re: Adding a DC Jack - Ripple Filtering and Reverse Polarity Protection

induction
In reply to this post by badoogie
badoogie wrote
Thanks for the replies guys.  I'm building these in separate enclosures, so each will need its own protection/filtering.

When choosing caps for the filtering is it best to breadboard and try a couple of values?

induction, would Vref be pin 3?  What sort of value cap would be required?
First question:
Filter caps are used in a low-pass filter arrangement.  Look at R1 and C1 in Frank's PSU Filter 5. If you assume your hum is 60 Hz and higher, then you can choose C1 to make sure the corner frequency is below 60 Hz and you'll be fine. I don't know what layout you're using, or if there is an equivalent to R1 on your board, though. The wire itself will have some resistance, so if you don't have R1 in your circuit, it will still work, but I'd increase C1 to  maybe 470u, or just try values on the breadboard, as you say. I find you can often get away with anything 10u or above. I like to use 47u because I have a ton of very small, 24V 47u electros.

Generally it's best to use a lower value on Vref than on V+. It often doesn't matter, but sometimes it does. When you pull the power, the bigger the cap, the slower it drains. If Vref drains slower than V+ you can sometimes have DC current running backward through the circuit, which some components don't like. Voltage regulators are particularly troublesome, unless you give them their own protection diodes.

Second question:
Yes, Vref in this case is found on pin 3 of the original OS schematic, but you can't just put the cap there without making some other changes, because it will bleed your signal to ground, treble-first. PSU Filter 5 is the right one for this job. (I wouldn't use Filter 6 for anything, by the way. That's just a bad design. C1 feeds them hum directly to Vref. It's a recipe for hum and oscillation.) Replace R2 and R3 in Filter 5 with 390k and 470k, respectively. These are the bias resistors connected to pin3. The trick, though, is to put a 220k between the Vref node in Filter 5 and pin 3 of the op-amp. The 47n cap should still go directly to pin 3, but it should be separated from Vref by the added 220k resistor. Why 220k? 390k and 470k in parallel give 213k. The closest standard resistor value to 213k is 220k. The 220k makes sure that your input signal sees the same resistance between itself and ground as it did in the stock OS. This whole arrangement is called 'low-noise biasing' (or sometimes 'noiseless biasing' - that name is maybe a bit optimistic, but believe me, it works really well). The good part is that once you learn this trick, you can apply it over and over. It's very useful. The bad part is that it's often hard to modify a layout to allow for it. Unless you modify the layout, it's often necessary to do some point-to-point work to separate the Vref node from the input signal with the 220k resistor.

In case this is confusing, here are some pictures that should clear it up. Compare C4, R4, and R8 in the OS schematic (with the original biasing setup) to R1, R2, R3, C1, and C2 in this buffer schematic (with low-noise biasing). The component values will depend on the circuit, but the low-noise biasing topology is fairly universal.

For what it's worth, I use some variation of Filter 5 on every circuit I make. I'll usually use an inline protection diode instead of a parallel one (D1), and sometimes R1 has to be adjusted downward or removed completely if it drops too much voltage. I use low-noise biasing almost exclusively, whether it's in the original circuit or not. (Some circuits like the COT-50 and the Fuzz Face don't allow for it, so it's either a battery or a regulated adapter for them. I use my own regulated power bricks for all of my pedals, but I still use low-noise biasing and decent V+ filtering no matter what, because I'm anal about these sorts of things.) Sometimes you don't need a Vref node. In that case I still include the V+ filtering and polarity protection from Filter 5, I just don't include the biasing network.