Dub Siren.

[Beaker]

Hi Alex, I'm just starting building the last (with transistors) version, but I only count 25 cuts. Is there another hidden cut somewhere?

[Alex]

Hi Beaker.
You are right: 25 cuts.
I've also moved Q1 to make the 150n cap fit better.
Hope it works as you wish and your son can enjoy it (...but be careful he doesn't go on the "dark side" of music. Make sure he stays on the rock side!)

[Beaker]

Ok, I see what you have done there, but I think you need to move the top leg of the 150nF cap down one row. For what it's worth I had no problems at all getting the cap to fit.

I've got the board built up to your last posted layout - I just need to wire up the offboard.

I guess it depends on what your version of "The Darkside" is! His own band certainly rocks - nearest comparison would be to Dinosaur Jr. He is a huge Neil Young and Gram Parsons fan, as well as most things Country. He has a Black Flag tatoo which tells you plenty.

He has previously played in Death Metal bands and Indie type bands.

He is a huge Ska/Reggae/Dub fan as well.

On top of this he has a record contract doing electronic dance music.

I guess you might call him a musical omnivore - I call him talented!!!

[Alex]

Wow! That's impressive!
I don't know why but I've assumed he was a just a kid starting out in your studio.
Some electronic music is just played with computers and no instruments.
That was my "darkside".
The 150n cap goes from pin 2/6 to ground.
There is a link from pin 1 to row C.

[Beaker]

"The 150n cap goes from pin 2/6 to ground.
There is a link from pin 1 to row C. "

Yep, got it - I was not taking enough notice of the link.

My son has a bunch of vintage synths, guitars and amps - all of which get used for his electronic music. If it needs a bass line, he will play a bass - all the way through - not play four bars, sample/cut/paste. It's just the way he likes to work.

[inefficiency]

I'm thinking of building one of these for a friend who is a Reggae/Dub/Dancehall DJ.

Anything I can substitute for the LM741?

[Beaker]

You could use any of the following:

CA3140
TL031
TL051
TL061
TL071
TL081
MCP061
OPA602
NE5532
MC33171N
LF351N

There are probably a few more too. I hope you have one of these alternatives in stock.
741 chips are cheap and easy to find on ebay, and are used on quite a few builds - DOD pedals use them a lot.

[inefficiency]

Yeah I've got some TL071 and NE5532.  Someone posted a link to a page that had a guide on it earlier. Is the video demo on that page the same siren as this one?

Looking forward to surprising my friend with his new noisemaker!

[Beaker]

Yes it is.

[Synsound]

I made a few changes on mine as I was boxing it up. I changed the mod pot to a 2K Lin. Which made it noticeable. With the 50k there was an extremely fine point at whichever the square wave mod could be found. I also inverted the connections on the rate pot so that it would be slowest at ccw.

[Beaker]

Thanks for that, it will help. Do you know which pot "name" relates to the pot number on the layout?

[Synsound]

I think the mod pot would be #1 I'll have to check the rate pot in a bit.

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 9, 2015, at 11:58 AM, Beaker [via Guitar FX Layouts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

Thanks for that, it will help. Do you know which pot "name" relates to the pot number on the layout?

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[Synsound]

Pot 1-mod
Pot 2-depth
Pot 3-rate
Pot 4- pitch

[Alex]

Cool! Updated the layouts with pots names.

[inefficiency]

So, the LED- is where I connect the cathode of the LED?

[Alex]

Correct. Anode to +9V.

[inefficiency]

Cool, thanks.

[Beaker]

Hi Alex,

I've just built another one of these with the LEDs, and realised there is a small error on your "with LEDs" layout.

The top connection on the left hand 68K needs to be moved up one row to the centre (base) pin of the transistor.

You also need a link wire from lug2 on the "Mod" switch to the left hand side of the board, row2.
That way you get the LED flashing in time with the rate pot.

The first one I built, I could not get the LEDs working properly, and figuring I had screwed up somewhere, and in a hurry to finish, I just left the LEDs out.

The above changes fixes it.

Many thanks again for this,
Mark.

p.s. can this be moved across to the "Verified Layouts", "Synths and Noisemakers" section?

[Alex]

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[Beaker]

Wow, thanks Alex! That's quite a radical re-draw.

I still think you need a link wire from Mod switch lug 2 to the base of Q1 in order to get a flashing rate LED.

I need to build (yet) another one of these soon, so I will build the Mk.III version and let you know how it goes.

Cheers!