Iron Tips - Hakko Users!

[Kinski]

Hello all Hakko users,

what tips do you guys use?

I've been using the one that came stock on my unit and its the flat bevel edge, which is fine but a bit to big I'm finding for some situations.

I'd like to get a pencil tipped one. I'm looking at the T18-B or T18-I. Maybe the I is too small? Or the B too big?

[motterpaul]

I have gotten used to the pencil tip, but it is a little different - you kind of have to draw the solder around the wire.  The similar ones that are just slightly dull flow the heat all over the copper and the lead a little better. For example, I would probably recommend "B" - although the pencil tip actually gives you more control once you get used to it, but it also takes just a bit longer to heat up the joint.

By the way - be SURE to check your Hakko model number before you order a new tip, I have seen different tips designated for different models of Hakko soldering guns.

[Kinski]

Thanks motterpaul!

Just the info I was looking for. I like to keep the time the tip is on a component to a minimum. I was leaning toward the B anyway. So I'll go with that then.

And I already checked. These tips work with my Hakko FX-888D.

[Hozy31]

I prefer the 2.4D type as i find it helps the pins and surrounding copper get hotter faster, and using with quality 0.7mm solder (60% tin, 40% lead) it flows really fast and evenly. I find this makes it faster as well. Really don't like lead free solder. Just my two bits worth.

[motterpaul]

Hozy - same principle - kind of a blunt end to flow the heat more. What makes the job harder is a thin tip, even if it is chisel shaped, the tips just don't quite get hot enough.

However, I will say I have gotten used to the pin-point tip and now prefer it for its ability to keep the work cleaner, but it does take a little longer to heat both the copper and the wire. You have to work both sides of the lead coming through the hole sometimes. But for re-flowing it gives you more precision control.

[Hozy31]

Hey Paul, yeh i totally agree. I have two soldering irons one with the smaller screwdriver type shape like the 2.4D and one with a pencil end a bit wider than the B. I use the first for all my general soldering but use the pencil tip for reflow or desoldering. I tried the chisel type and it was really slow work. It is definitely what you feel does the best job for you i reckon. I also find getting the correct solder is a must though. Started out using lead free as i didn' want to damage my health but found it a bit shit to say the least, then read an article that mentioned the fumes from the flux are more likely to do you harm unless you chew on the solder. Anyway i gave up on lead free and have been so happy with the stuff i get, not too much flux and a cleaner melt in general.

[Hozy31]

Just another addition. Be careful on the type of solder tips you buy. I bought some cheap ones off Evilbay and after two weeks the ends were being destroyed by the acid in the flux. Changed to the tips with the duller type tips and haven't needed to change it for about 8 months.

[Kinski]

Good points all around guys. I don't mess with generic tips. They suck. I got a Hakko tip. Went with the T18-B. I currently use the 2.4D, which is great but a little too bulky for me.

[negativefx]

Used to use a 1.2D, switched to a 2.4D and love it.

[tabbycat]

Kinski wrote

I'd like to get a pencil tipped one.

i don't use hakko (i don't think, but may be rebranded hakko) but re tip choice in general i prefer the 1.2D pencil shaped one that has a slightly chiselled end (like when you wear down a pointed pencil on just one side, if you know what i mean), so you can use the flattened side for heating up bigger areas and reflowing, and then rotate it 180 degrees and use the point for the fiddly stuff. best of both worlds.

[Ross]

The stock one (which I think is the 1.6D). I think I'd like to try the next size down (I think that's the 1.2D). Once I started using the chisel tip, I don't think I could ever go back to the conical tip.