Is it me? or is it bad luck? or am I a dummy?

[yalesmith]

Hello.  Okay I have built a bunch of amps and maybe 100 pedals.  I am recently new to Guitar FX layout and new to using strip boards.  I have tried to to build 3 or 4 pedals but the only one i was able to get to work is the tone control pedal (BMP).  I don't really understand transistor or opamp theory, say like i understand tube theory. I think what is important to me to is to have voltages!!!!.  Is there a reason that they are not part of the build instructions.  I tried to build the Interstellar Overdrive, Devi Ever Hyperion 2, The Roverray, and even the Black arts fuzz..... They seem to have the same issue....low volume and crackle instead of distortion.  Any ideas?  What you think about adding voltages?  

Thanks

[tjdracz]

You sure you're getting 9v at the input for a start? You should check the voltages at the transistor pins and post them here so we can all have a look.
Double check connectivity with multimeter to be sure that no adjacent strips are connected by an accident and that your cuts in the strips were good enough.
Lastly, double and triple check the transistor orientation, don't blindly follow the graphic representation on layout, check the pins and compare with transistor datasheet.
It's also always good to post pictures of your board so people can have a look.
Good luck with debugging and don't get discouraged! I spent pretty much a week debugging my build before I found it was a faulty battery clip!

[JaviCAP]

No, you just need practise.

Many people use to think that vero building  is easier and "less profesional" than etched boards, when really, they are way harder to solder, and easier  to misplace components or wires. Populating a printed board for a Klon or a Triple Wreck is a joke if  compared it  with a vero.

I don't use to need voltages for any build, even less for easier ones like the one you mentioned. The only rule you need is that a ground has to be 0 volts, that a +V has to be close to 9v and that a Vr uses to be about 4.5v.

When a component has to be biased close to a given value, is always mentioned. In your case: low volumes + cracle=  bridges and cold / bad solders.

Check unwanted continuity between rows, and continuity between components. Check critical voltages like where you shoud find 9v and 0v, reflow solder if needed, and take the tme to get used.

None of my early veros did work at first try, and I'm afraid that none of the first builds of any user of this blog did get a 100% success.

BR

[yalesmith]

Ok i took some readings for the hyperion 2 and they are as follows:

Q1
C 9
B 7.4
E 8.35

Q2
C 9
B 8.56
E 8.35

Q3
C 9
B 8.56
E 8.35

Thanks

[tjdracz]

Are those measurments taken with oscillation pot fully engaged? When it is, you should basically get the ground at the lowest vero strip and emitters should all be 0 volts. It should work as Devi Ever Hyperion fuzz then.
With the turn of the oscillation pot ccw, ground should "disappear" with more voltage at the emitters and this weird oscillations.
If you turn oscillation pot fully clockwise and the emitters don't read 0v, there is a problem with wiring there. Check the jumper between the strip where pot connects and the lower lowest strip. In doubt just remove oscillation pot and write the ground in the place where it was connected to the board. In effect, you will get Hyperion v1

[yalesmith]

I got that and It never occurred to me that oscillation is controlled by voltage swings, but when you think of it,  it makes sense.  I did check it and it works as it should.  I think the problem is the voltages at the base.