Here is a verified layout of Spaceman Effects Saturn V. It's quite a powerful booster with light overdrive qualities when the Drive knob is maxed. Dino T traced it and the schematic is avaiable over at DIYSB.
Built it with this layout too, sounds great. It really has a ton of boost, and the gain gets pretty decent, it's pretty nice to goose a fuzz as well. Thanks Anders, Dino, PMowdes. Lots of fun
Another note, as for "Ferrite Beads" I had been using "Z-max Gold" chokes made by Ferronics up to this point, but I'm about to run out.. I got a bag on E-bay for cheap.. and now there nowhere to be found! Like.. nowhere! Mouser doesn't even carry them. If anyone finds a source for them let me know. I really like them. I think it's fitting for these spaceman effects because honestly I'm drawn to their aesthetics.. shame on me!
-Brett
Can i use IRF510 in place of the LND150N3 for this circuit?
the difference i found is
IRF510 vds is 100v LND150N3 vds is 500v
IRF510 pd is 20w LND150N3 pd is 0.74w
IRF510 ld is 5.6a LND150N3 ld is 0.03A
Since this circuit is only running at 9v would there be much of a difference?
I really hope this isn't a stupid question? I have the IRF510 have to order the LND150N3
With or without an LED? If with, disconnect the LED and try it again. If the on/off click disappears, well... there is a reason why the originals carried Millenium switching (which is not present on the vero version).
Sorry, I always use our wiring from the offboard wiring page. The only thing I do different is put the clr on the switch itself. I'll have to check mine and see if I did the clr on the board or switch. I'll check and get back to you.
Just checked. I used a 4.7k for on the board (per anders layout) and a blue led. You could always try a 1m resistor from input to ground on the switch, that usually fixes most popping issues I've had with other pedals.