Masking tape is good - right now I am using "self-locking" tweezers - they are long and not too tight, so you don't damage the part by holding it in.
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In reply to this post by Vince
I got some cheap matte black spraypaint from ebay that is apparently for use on cars and bikes, but I doubt I'd be putting the stuff anywhere near MY car! Either way, the nozzles are quite good and it actually leaves a decent finish, I'm just concerned about how hard wearing it will be.
I hand painted one with hammered finish Hammerite and it looks awesome, but I can't imagine it being very practical for anything other than one-offs. Lastly; General spraying advice? The first time I sprayed I did it in my office/workshop and the fumes were horrendous, but it's probably the most practical area for me to do it. I don't have the luxury of a dedicated area. |
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i spray all my boxes some look amazing, some not so good and i have to go back and do some touch up, but here's what i've learned about it.
1 - at least lightly scuff the box with fine steel wool or lightly sand the box with fine sand paper. 2 - make sure the box is clean, so after sanding/scuffing go over it with some rubbing alcohol or acetone. 3 - prime the box. in all the boxes that were not primed the paint comes off when tape removed when taking off the drilling template. if you look at some of the boxes i posted you can see where the paint lifted from the tape. it's not a real big deal to go back, mask important parts that i don't want painted, and touch them up, but i'm just too lazy right now. lol 4 - if you can clear the paint before drilling. it prevents the paint from being lifted 5 - i drill after i paint my enclosures. this way i do not have to clean the holes for the jacks to get good grounding, plus i plan to screen print images/logos/control names which will have the drill template on it, and will be cleared before painting. 6 - make sure you have good ventilation and the temperature is warm enough. this will speed up drying time. 7 - hammer tone paint come out awesome. they are super strong and durable, usually can get away with 1 coat. also, i only use automotive paint, cause it's made for metal, and when done right should be more durable then generic spray paint. |
It says on the paint instructions to rough the enclosure up a bit, but I haven't bothered yet - although I do clean the enclosures with methylated spirits first. The amount of grey shit that ends up on the cloth is ridiculous, so it's definitely a must.
I generally drill mine before painting due to fear that I might mess up somewhere whilst drilling and damage the paint. I just stick a bit of masking tape over the holes on the inside and that makes sure grounding will be fine. The first one I sprayed I didn't use the tape and had to take some sand paper over it, which was fine, but doesn't look too great. I learned the hard way about being in a ventilated area and long story short I managed to inhale a massive back-spray from the aerosol and my windpipe was screwed for around 5 hours. It felt cold every time I took a breath. Almost like my throat was menthol-ized now. Not good. I guess I'm good then. Can anyone recommend some good paint on eBay? |
Yeah I use auto paint on my boxes as well, but I've never bothered with primer, and often not even clear (i'm starting to clear my pedals more lately). Maybe it's because I don't abuse mine that much but the paint still looks good.
I've just recently started trying something a little different, and what I'm doing atm is 1) measure and drill, 2) scuff up the surface of the box with a green scouring pad (the actually abrasive ones), 3) wash with soap and water and another green pad, dry/let dry, 4) spray 1-3 coats of color, 5) let dry under a clean cardboard box to prevent dust from getting on the fresh paint, 6) wait at least 48h to make sure the paint is set, 7) embellishments, 8) spray 1-2 coats of clear using same method as above, 9) let dry at least 48h under box. I also wear a mask when I spray. Really for best protection one should wear a P100 mask or respirator, because I'm fairly certain all the paints we use are oil-based, but anything will help protect you (even the general-use N95 dust masks. I spray in a shed, door open.
Through all the worry and pain we move on
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Nice. This is pretty much my current method.
I often don't use clear because I don't want to alter the finish. I have some matte black paint and so on that looks good without having a sheen to it. Probably won't be as hard wearing, but meh... The mask I ordered is just a 3M one. A "7502" or something like that. Should stop me from ruining my windpipe like last time.... |
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