Twin Peaks Tap Tempo Harmonic Tremolo (perfboard layout)

[H.A.M]

There is already a vero layout in the forum and recently also on the main page.
This perfboard layout is a bit smaller (31x26), because it uses two linked boards linked with the traces side facing each other. Will fit in a 1590BB.
I redid an old perfboard layout of David Rolo that was a prototype for the recent PCB version (sold out).
This layout is based on the most recent revised schematic. I have permission from David to post the layout here. Not yet verified, hopefully some more eyes can go over it?

For additional info see the original post of David in the Madbean / DIY stomboxes forums. Otherwise see the posted links in the vero layout version on the main page.

Cheers!

Btw, there is an empty "PCB" folder. but "no "Perfboard" folder. Might come in handy for the occasional smaller builds?

[negativefx]

Anyone have recommended reading on how to get started with perf board?  I'm not even sure what types of links to use (bare wire or insulated for example) or how to build the links efficiently.

[Muadzin]

negativefx wrote

Anyone have recommended reading on how to get started with perf board?  I'm not even sure what types of links to use (bare wire or insulated for example) or how to build the links efficiently.

Don't? Perf is evil. It's the devil's brew. An exercise in sheer masochism. I've never managed to get anything working with perf bigger then a millennium bypass. I hate it with a fiery passion. I would rather build 10 vero versions of this beast (which I already think is insanity) then a single perf version.

If you persist in this madness the best advice I can give you is do not solder components into place and then bend the legs to make the links. It will make desoldering parts from this evil monstrosity an even bigger nightmare. Solder components into place, cut off the legs and use those separately to make the links.

[Silver Blues]

Agreed on all counts. Soldering in place then bending is the standard way to do it but you better be damn sure of the integrity of what you're building if you're going to do it this way.

[rocket88]

can't agree more. i've done 1 perfboard effect and it was not just murder to make, but never worked right no matter what i did. once i put it on vero it worked perfectly. it's so fragile and finicky that i really wouldn't if i were you. just my $0.02.

[H.A.M]

I agree with everyone on this one. Be very patient and know what you're doing every step of the way. I've already started building it and am still waiting on some parts. Some errors, will update soon.

[H.A.M]

There were some mistakes in the layout. Now added the correct values on all parts.
Here's the link to the build document:

http://www.davidrolo.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/Twin-Peaks-Tremolo-2.1-build-doc.pdf

From this doc:"C22 is used to smooth out the sharp corners of the LFO signal and remove some spikes that can produce audible clicks especially with sharper edged wave shapes. You might not necessarily need it. It depends on your particular Optocoupler and whether you like the signal to be chopped real hard or not. I suggest socketing that cap, trying without it first and then start with a low value like 20n until you find a value that removes the tick but does not round off the square wave too much."

[H.A.M]

After some corrections of mistakes in the layout I went on to building it. I had it on the breadboard yesterday, but it didn't work. Went over it fast, didn't see anything. So I put it aside and went on to building the vero layout version. Suddenly I realized that the led was the wrong way in, haha! Duh!
Now the anode is facing T1.

Verified!





I will still finish the verolayout ;)