Wampler Faux Spring Reverb - (BDTR-2 version)

[MAO]

I was so impressed with Alex's Ping layout, I decided to rework the Wampler Faux Spring Reverb and Dead Astraunaut's Chasm Reverb.

This is the FSB schematic I used for the Wampler Faux Spring Reverb layout.

I updated  the layout to use a brick-2, and since only 3 of the 4 opamps are being used, I swapped one of the TL072s for a TL071.  

There was some discussion on FSB about the value for R4. The schematic has 3k3, but the suggested value is 33k. Probably should socket that resistor and try both.

The board should be rotated CW and the brick soldered to the bottom. (Thanks Alex!)

And last, I added an extra column on the left to accommodate routing the wires through the board. (Thanks JohnK!)

Verified by me

NOTE: The TL072 is upside down

Update 06-12-2016: Omit the link between pins 2 & 4 of the Belton Brick, it is not needed as pins 2 & 4 are already connected internally. verified by me

Update 08-18-2017: Reversed tone control connections.



   

[Frank_NH]

Nice layout!

How does this one sound?  I have built a Rub-a-dub Deluxe using the 1776 PCB, and I really don't like the BDTR-3 brick as it has too much modulation to the point of sounding very unnatural (as compared to the  real spring reverb on my Roland amp).  I'd be tempted to try this if the older BDTR-2 has less modulation.

[MAO]

Thanks!

I haven't played it enough yet, but I like it so far.

The J201 definitely affects the intensity. A couple of older through holes I had sounded really weak. I need to make up a few more SMDs then I will report back.

This design uses just 1 of the 2 brick outputs, I wonder if that cuts down on the intensity and/or modulation. When I audio probed pin 5, seemed like that output was a bit delayed. That might be why this one sounds a bit different than the others I've tried.  

I've read that the short version brick-2 has the least amount of modulation. I have one on the way, will let you know if the modulation is noticeably better.    

[Frank_NH]

Thanks for the feedback.  I was A/B testing my Rub-a-dub with my Roland amp spring reverb.  With the spring you just hear the decay of the mixed reverb-dry signal with no modulation at all.  This is exactly how I like reverb to be.  The Belton BDTR-3, on the other hand, had a very noticeable and annoying  "warble" - especially when you strummed a chord and stopped.  And that's at bedroom levels.  Turn it up and the warble is all over your guitar tone unless you turn down the wet signal!   Unacceptable for a reverb.  I've used other digital reverbs and most all do not have any kind of modulation that I can detect.  Anyhow, I'd be curious to know if the BDTR-2 (short) fixes this issue.  Thanks again!

[MAO]

If you can do it easily, try disconnecting pin 5 of a brick-2 or brick-3 build and see if the modulation changes. Probably easiest to just lift the resistor end that pin 5 feeds.

I have a Chasm Reverb nearly finished, I'll try the same it on that one.  

[Frank_NH]

Thanks for the tip.  Probably not easy to lift pin 5 on my Rub-a-dub PCB, but I could snip it free.  Seeing as I'm not using it now...hmmmm.

[MAO]

If its the rub a dub deluxe with the brick-3, looks like pin 5 connects to Tone Pot lug-3.

Can you remove the Tone pot?

Or if the Tone Pot is connected to the board with wires, disconnect the wires from lugs 1 & 3.

Not sure it will help, but worth a try if you don't care for it as is.

[strassercaster]

Great layout. I love the direct brick mount thats the way to do these no offboard wiring. I hope you like this reverb for me its the best of all of them tonally and it can be just a tint or  shade if wanted. Good Job Buddy

[strassercaster]

Yes the modulation is there on both bricks. However I found this build to have the least amount of flutter on the decay. I like to set it low and that does the trick this build can be set to where you dont here any modulation if you just barely crack it youll get a pretty good reverb without the modulation. Still not as good as a real spring reverb but I dont have real spring reverb on my vintage marshalls . I really only use it when playing pretty things or van halen ha ha

[strassercaster]

Curious why two grounds? One for the jack and one for the dc? It doesnt look like  i have to hook them both up. Wouldnt that be a possible ground loop? what size wire are you using? what size drill bit ?

[tabbycat]

thanks for the layout mao. i've already built the chasm (yet to be tested) but this one i may have a go at at a later date.
i have to say i really like your attention to detail with the offboard wiring and how the brick fits neatly under. i avoid board mounted pots, even with proper pcbs, as i worry about stressing the solder joint, but that's just me being neurotic. but nice as an option for all those who are into that.
i get the feeling you really got into this one. go mao!

[MAO]

Thanks Tabbycat, I completely agree with you on the offboard wiring.  I used to go for the smallest footprint, now I go for ease of offboard wiring.

Seems like Alex does the same. I just finished his "Into the Unknown" layout and will be posting pictures as soon as the 4015 comes in and I verify it works. But the offboard wiring on that big layout is fantastic. I hardly ever modify Alex's layouts.

The only issue with these belton brick layouts is you need to be sure everything is good before you solder in the brick. Otherwise toubleshooting will be tough.

I use this homemade harness before committing to soldering in the brick. Tayda: Housing Connector 2.54mm 6 Pins (A-830) and 6 Crimp Terminal Connectors 2.54mm (A-837)

[MAO]

04/25/2016 - I confirmed the bit size is 5/64. Works for Both 22 and 24 gauge Tayda solid wire. A 1/16 inch bit works for 24 gauge solid wire.  

Strassercaster,

I usually wire the dc jack's ground to the board and use the input jack's ring connection to ground both the enclosure and stomp switch through the board. No ground loop.

I'm now using Tayda 24 gauge solid hookup wire. I don't remember the size of the drill bit, it looks like it's probably 1/16 inch. It fits perfectly in the smaller hole in the corner of the Tayda vero boards. I use this same bit to drill the pilot holes in my enclosures.

22 gauge solid wire also fits through these drilled holes, but they are a bit of a squeeze.  

[strassercaster]

Hey I just Buttoned on of these layouts up. Great layout it was easy to make and I got to try the 3 different bricks in it because I socketed the brick since it was easy to do. I like all three brick 2's  in this layout the long medium and short can all be dialed down to one very nice reflection with no shimmer flutter or modulation. This IS THE BRICK BUILD  to make. It will do the same as all the other Brick 2  pedals with the ability to tone it down. Thanks again

[MAO]

Cool, thank you.

05/10/2016 - I agree with strassercaster, great sounding reverb. The most natural sounding, amp like reverb so far for me.

Which sockets did you use?

[traktop]

Working on a chasm reverb, but I can´t wait to build this one...
Still looking for something that holds against the EH big box holy grail hall setting.
It has a lovely warm decay texture that works so great for clean and slightly saturated amps.

[MAO]

I went with a short brick 2 for this one.  

The Chasm is another winner for sure. When I get some down time, I'm going to try a brick 3 with the Chasm to see how it does with the added decay control.

[traktop]

Haven´t got  smd j201s, so I hope I won´t have to mess too much with drains resistors in order to get a decent sound...
I´ve been trying a boss rv-6 recently. In my opinion most of the settings are crap. The hall mode sucked big time. It really sounds like a one repeat delay mixed with a reverb all the way up... The shimmer mode had a hot spot that was pretty special though...(monk like). I didn´t like the spring at the beginning, but lately I´m enjoying it with the tone roll down a little.. The modulation mode seemed very similar to the chasm, but the latter seemed to have more soul as I heard on the demos.
I´ve used a medium decay brick for the chasm, (still not finished). I was thinking on going with a short   with the faux like yours, since I´m looking for a more amp like reverb.
To be sincere, I went for the chasm reverb first, cause I´ve heard about some users talking about the wampler messing with the original clean signal a little bit.
Do you think this will fit on a 125b tall enclosure?

[MAO]

Good news on both, definitely fits in a 125b and there isn't a drain resistor in this design.

I had a couple of fakes, or maybe just way out of specs j201s. Should have discarded them a long time ago.

I had made up another half dozen of the smds for this build, they all sounded the same...and they are also all over the place within the spec range. My guess is if your j201s are legit, they will be fine.

If not, I can send you one that works in my build.

Let me know.

[traktop]

Nice to hear, thanks!